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RE: Koni Sport Adjustables - Need a primer session Pls.



I run Koni/H&R, too. Excellent combo. Unless you're super-hard-core, rebound
adjustment is all you need. There's a great article on shock tuning in the
newest issue of SCCA's Racer magazine.

>>- Where can I get a replacement adjuster?, I didn't get one.

>shox.com?

Actually, a pair of plyers or a very small wrench would work fine. You could
take a block of plastic or wood and cut a small oblong slot/hole in it too.
Cheap-Ass Ron may also have ideas.


>>- What's up with filling the shock tube with oil?, cooling?

>You got it! :)

Filling shock tube with oil? Huh?? At risk of sounding stupid, what the heck are
you guys talking about?

BTW, TBerk, if you "tighten" the adjusters fully untill it stops, that is the
shock's softest setting. "Loosen" it to increase rebound settings. Maximum
rebound stiffness is 1 TURN from full-soft. My instructions say DO NOT loosen it
more than 1 TURN.

I've found that, on my nose-heavy '88 16v, the front end is slightly
under-damped when full soft. The nose will bounce a bit on larger bumps or on
bad concrete joins. Thus, I run about .25-.50 turn on the front shocks, and
full-soft on the rear. Quite comfortable. Your mk1 is lighter on the nose, so
YMMV. Best comfort = softest settings with no bounce. For autocross, I start
with full-hard (1.0 turn) front and rear. Depending on track conditions, I may
soften the front a little to try to reduce understeer. With a "aggressive
street" alignment (don't know the actual specs), a 28mm rear swaybar, stock 16v
front swaybar, and Yokohama street tires, I have no problem inducing
trailing-throttle oversteer. That's probably about the best you can hope for
with a comfortable/streetable FWD car and 65/35 weight distribution!

Neal



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