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Re: (OT) Drill Cord or Battery




To remove the rivets use a good sharp chisel and chisel the heads off. You
can then use a punch to drive the rivets out.  It's *way* faster than
drilling, and you don't run the risk of drilling off centre or too deep
and creating an oblong hole in the control arm.

No power required (unless, of course you have an air chisel... :) )

No toolbox should be without a good selection of good chisels - I'm
halfway there, as witnessed by the damned door pin that took 15 minutes to
chisel through on Daun's 87.

Drew


On Sun, 10 Jun 2001, John C. Worden wrote:

> At 10:50 PM 6/10/01 -0400, Kervin Ridgley wrote:
> >Well, I'm going to need to buy a drill to get the rivets out of my
> >control arm (and maybe a shine bar sometime down the road).  I don't
> >have power close to where I work on my car, so I can get a corded drill
> >with a long-a** power cord or a nice cordless one.  What kind of
> >cordless drill would you get?
> >
> >Kervin 
> >86 8V
> >
> 
> For the control arm rivets I would remove the whole thing from the car and
> take it to where you have plug in power.  These rivets are pretty tough and
> you will use a lot of power drilling them out.  Drill press is the best way
> to 
> go, but then a corded is next best choice.  I've got a 1/2" Ryobi hammerdrill
> my wife bought me; it's great for jobs like that.  But if you have to have a 
> cordless I would by a Craftsman personally.  I say that because I've used
> a lot of different ones(I work at HomeDepot) and still prefer my Craftsman,
> at least as far as value goes(Dewalts are nice, but overpriced).
> 
> 
> John C. Worden	
> Bucksport, Maine
> 
> '98 Dakota 4x4-
> '86 Scirocco 8V-
> '81 Scirocco 2.0 16V - Needs an oil pump gear
> 
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Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of Guelph

drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca           |  visit the Massey-Harris page:
http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew   |  http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca


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