Re: no cold starts

["Brian Wagner" <scirocco_88_16v@hotmail.com>]

Let's start at the bottom.

John Elway is and will always be an ass (met him at the State Armory in 
Greeley CO when he started, this was years ago when I was in school at UNC), 
but all personal preferences aside.

I recently experienced the same problem as you, yes almost identical.

I had checked the following

Thermotime switch
thermo switch
CSV (cold start valve)
etc....

and all were within tolerance of what was stated in the bentley. Then out of 
the blue (or was it over the internet) a little voice said try the ICM 
(ingintion control module) not the knock box or the ECM (engine control 
module) just the little ICM. So I pulled the one off the parts car and on 
the next cold morning 38 degrees (in Texas), I swapped the ICM. I sat in the 
seat and inserted the key gently turning, the next thing I knew the car was 
running the cold start problem was gone. I immediately turned it off and 
switched the old ICM back in and the SOB wouldn't fire. Changed it back and 
vroom, I read your whole email start to finish. the ICM is like $30 at 
Autozone if you don't have a spare, if you do try it you may like the 
results.

This worked for me and it sure beat the stealership labor rate, it took 10 
mins and now the car is great.

HTH

Brian


>From: "Monster" <monster@aros.net>
>To: "Chris DeLong" <green536@hotmail.com>
>CC: "scirocco list" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Subject: Re: no cold starts
>Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 19:55:20 -0700
>
>Probably need to tweak something.. Maybe it's little neck Oh I mean... :)
>No seriously, it IS probably the thermo timing switch or the ECM.  It's
>really odd but you can sit out there and try to crank until doomsday and it
>wont crank.  I ran an experiment today.. 35 times I turned the key on, then
>off waiting for the fuel pump to cycle on then off.  Then I started it.
>Smelled like raw gas and it started after some minor grumbling in german to
>it.  Usually it will ONLY start when the battery is low and the start is
>almost dead then it starts fine.  After about 5 minutes it gets shut off 
>and
>started no problem... 2 hours later starts fine.  4 hours after that..
>starts no problem (Yes this is what we injurred people do when you cant
>drive)  8 hours later starts fine, no problem..next day
>Hard cold start fight fight fight groan groan ok I'll start (after the
>battery is almost dead from cranking)
>9 hours later  starts fine
>10 hours later no start.  So whatever it's problem is it has to wait over 9
>hours for it to have this problem.
>Anyone wanna come out here and drive my car about 20 block north to the
>dealership?  The way I see it is it's gonna have to wait there over night
>for the dealership to find out whats wrong with it.  If I could drive it
>down there everything would be all warmed up and they couldnt test anything
>cold.
>it's not the o2 sensor.. checked that, it's not the o-rings or
>injectors..remember it starts fine AFTER the first cold start of the day..
>so rule out fuel pump and pressure and all that garbage.  Also a
>suggestion.. READ the entire mail before you respond.. THINK about the
>situation.  Too many people reading half sentances then posting something
>stupid like it's the battery.. I already said it's not, the battery is good
>and starts will allow a start up to 9 hours.  Lights only go dim AFTER the
>starter has been tried for about 10 minutes.
>Sorry to be so harsh but I had to say that.  I DO know a little about
>cars...used to work on Toyotas (yes John Elway was a nice guy and he was
>short LOL (6'6 I'm 6'8).
>See ya :) -=John=-
>
>
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