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Re: Errata: injector o-ring replacement




And a 'free' tool for this is the back side of one of the Lisle triple
square drivers...you know the ones with the CV joint driver and the head
bolt driver?  They're 4 to a set, cost about $10 at Pep Boys for them. Ah,
I just adore using a tool in a way that was never intended by it's creator.


==Brett


>IIRC, the hex tool is 13mm not 12 as I stated originally.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Christian Els" <tiAn@usiw.net>
>To: "Corey Muscavitz" <skyrocco16v@prodigy.net>; "scirocco list"
><scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Sent: Thursday, 02 August, 2001 11:39
>Subject: Re: injector o-ring replacement
>
>
> > This is very straight forward and doesn't "require" any special tools,
> > although the puller is handy.
> >
> > Your 16V has two o-rings per injector, go ahead and get all eight.
> >
> > Your 16V also has plastic injector seats, also with an o-ring per, go
>ahead
> > and buy all these as well. The plastic bakes as your engine runs, gets
>very
> > brittle with age. They're cheap, replace them too.
> >
> > I use a medium size standard (8") screwdriver with the tip bent a little
> > from prying too hard on something immoveable. I pry against the lower
>intake
> > manifold and try to keep the injector straight relative to the seat by
> > holding the top with my other hand.
> >
> > With old seats, you will likely break at least one, which will drop into
>the
> > head. Oops. Hopefully you can fish them out with a coat-hanger-hook, else
> > you may have to pull the intake manifold. It is plastic, so if a few
>*small*
> > fragments get lost they will pass harmlessly (not guarantee implied ;)
> > through the exhaust, but to try to get all the pieces out.
> >
> > The injector seats require a 12mm hex tool which I ended up having to
>source
> > from Snap-On as Sears, Napa, et al didn't carry that large a size.
> >
> > I used non-silicone, sensor safe anti-seize on the seats when I installed
> > them, along with the new o-ring. This prolly wasn't necessary but added
> > peace of mind for me.
> >
> > When re-seating the injectors into the seats, be sure to keep them
> > perpendicular to the seat else they will crack your new seat and either
>leak
> > air or require R&R again.
> >
> > I use a brass drift and a small mallet to gently tap the injector back
>down
> > into place, working around the circumference of the injector to keep it
> > even. You will hear a decided change in report when the injector has
> > bottomed in the seat, letting you know it is in place.
> >
> > All-in-all it took me about 45 minutes to replace mine, made for a much
> > smoother idle and better off-idle throttle response on my 145K mile motor.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > Christian Els
> > 87 16V
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Corey Muscavitz" <skyrocco16v@prodigy.net>
> >
> >
> > > i've been thinking about doing the injector o-rings in my 88 16v because
> > it
> > > has never ran right when it was cold since i got it.  are there any
> > special
> > > tools that i need to do this?  i have a bently, but i was wondering if
> > > anybody has any tips on how to do this... i've never pulled teh
>injectors
> > > before, so i'm kinda nervous.  oh, maybe i should get new o-rings first!
> > > where is a good place to get these from?  thanks
> > > corey

 \/  '84 Scirocco (ITB racer 2B) | "Hot VW's, take two home. They're small"
\/\/ '88 Scirocco 16v (Show), '92 Passat 16v (Winter+) | - brett@netacc.net

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