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Re: Driver's door replacement



Por-15 or some other rust conversion agent like "Rustmort" works great in 
those hard to reach areas where you can't sand to bare metal and wirewheel. 
Once you have it down to bare metal make sure you treat it with a "etching" 
metal conditioner before you fill any defects or prime.
Rust conversion agents only work if there is rust! If you use these, just 
remove the macro-rust first and the residual micro-rust will get coverted, 
and gernerally stopped in its tracks. However if you can reach rusted areas, 
I feel it is best to go with the metal "etcthing"
conditioner method.All these products can be found in your local auto-body 
supply. In San Jose, CA. I recomend "Center Paint" on Stevens Creek Blvd.

HTH

David
1981 "S"
1980


>From: T Berk <tberk@mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: tberk@mindspring.com
>To: Jorel <jorel140@yahoo.com>
>CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Re: Driver's door replacement
>Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 11:16:27 -0800
>
>
>Bubble rust around the door handle is common (not here in Cal though).
>If you tear the door down it can be repaired & rust proofed against
>future tin worm incursions. Means at least a spot respray though.
>
>If you want a replacement you should know that they don't make these
>anymore. You _may_ find NOS (new old stock) sitting around somewhere,
>good luck.
>
>One thing people do it get the rust checked, using POR-15 or something
>to rustproof, and install Armor door guards to-
>
>A. cover repairs &
>B. Prevent future pry in robberies.
>
>hth,
>TBerk
>
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