RE: break caliper color question???

["Neal Tovsen" <sixteen.volt@gte.net>]

TAKE IT OFF!!! That is, if you don't like over-spray on your car! That stuff
seems to manage to get everywhere. You also have to really clean the snot
out of the parts with a wire brush or the paint probably won't stick too
well (difficult with it attached). Even the thought of the mess makes it
worth the extra $10 for new fluid and 20 extra minutes of your time.
Besides, you can't bleed your brakes too often, right?

You'll also want to do the carrier brackets, since they wrap around to the
front of the rotor. I'd also recommend doing the splash shields (probably in
black) if yours are rusty. I did the fronts, and they look really nice, but
the bolts on the rear wouldn't come off easily so I didn't mess with them.
Now I'm wishing I had taken the extra time, 'cause it's kind of tragic to
see a beautiful wheel with shiny new rotors, bright red calipers, and a
rusty splash shield behind it all...

Neal

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 16v Jason [mailto:jason@scirocco.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 10:50 AM
> To: Neal Tovsen; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: RE: break caliper color question???
>
>
> So, did anyone paint theirs with the calipers still attached?
> (Brake lines
> attached, I don't mean still wrapped around the rotor).  If so, any
> advice.... or should I just take the whole shit off?
>
> Jason
>
>
>
> At 11:12 PM 5/1/2000 , Neal Tovsen wrote:
>
> > > I used "Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with Ceramic."  Supposed to
> withstand
> > > intermittent temps up to 500 degrees F.  There were probably
> 15 different
> > > colors in stock when I got it.  It is very durable, too.  Sprayed
> > > my oil pan
> > > and lower tie bar, and they have both held up well.   I just
> resprayed the
> > > calipers after 1 1/2 years.  Great product for only $5.00 a can!
> > >
> > > Hint:  When the can says "for additional coats after 1 hour,
> > > allow paint to
> > > cure for 5 days", believe it.
> > >
> >
> >Yes, and also be SURE to push the piston in (to drain the fluid)
> BEFORE you
> >paint! Even with that, you're almost guaranteed to get a little
> fluid on the
> >caliper when you bleed the brakes, and that fluid will eat right
> through the
> >paint. Fortunately, the bleeder valve is on the back of the
> caliper, so you
> >can't see it.
> >
> >I used plain-ol' RED engine paint from DupliColor. I was going to get the
> >number for you (I just did mine a couple weeks ago), but I guess
> I threw the
> >can out. It looks really good. If you don't want "ricey", then (IMHO, of
> >course!) you're pretty much limited to either red, black, or
> silver. If you
> >go red, don't get the Ford Red...it's got a hint of orange that
> looks funny
> >with Tornado Red. The best advice, no matter what color, is to
> test it on a
> >piece of scrap metal and stick it in your wheel well to see if
> you like it.
> >
> >FWIW, A company called Folia Tec makes a "caliper laquer kit". I
> found an ad
> >for a company  called Ultra Performance
> <http://www.ultraperformance.com> in
> >SCC that carried it. It's a 2-part paint with a special cleaner, so I'd
> >guess it's an epoxy-based paint. $49.99 is kinda expensive, but
> I imagine it
> >probably stands up to brake fluid better than engine paint.
> >
> >
> >--
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>
>
>
>
> ----------
> 1987 Scirocco 16v
> 1989 Mercedes 190E Sport Euro
>
>
> http://members.aol.com/rocco16v


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