Re: Leaking driveshaft flange (making a mountain)

["M. Hansen" <hansen@ionsys.com>]

Oh great, one small oil leak and I have to rebuild the whole front of
the car.  What happens when the valve cover gasket starts leaking?  New
cam,  stainless valves, aluminum valve cover, cam splashguard, shaved
head, header, ported manifold, larger tb?  Oh and upper stress bar
because it's in the vicinity.   
  The funny thing is, I've done about half of the things you guys have
recommended anyway.  I guess now I can get the other half done.  As for
seperating the ball joint from the strut housing, I've never had to do
this to remove the axles.  I just turn the wheel to help gain the needed
clearance and the axle slides out.  Of course I don't have the special
tool to remove the driveshaft flanges and would like instructions on how
to make it.  Velocity kit is not in the cards at this time, I live in
the Great White North and the cost by the time it reaches here is
expensive.  I just want the leak to stop so my car doesn't smell like
burning dinosaurs.  Burning gear oil is a really, really disgusting
smell like it's not bad enough on its own.  
As usual, any help is appreciated and TIA.

Mike 
83 Scirocco GT





Brett Van Sprewenburg wrote:

> It's the inner drive flange seal that sits at the bottom of the
> flange cup and insulates the CV joint from the differential housing.
> What you're seeing is transmission oil mixed with CV joint grease.
> It can make quite a mess, BTDT. :)  Now is the time to install the
> Velocity 80% limited slip differential kit, as my point of view is
> that by purchasing a pair of flange seals you get a limited slip
> for free. :)  You'll need an 8mm triple square drive tool (set of
> four available from Lisle in all finer Pep Boys and it's ilk) to
> remove the inner CV joint.  You _might_ be able to get the drive
> shafts strung up out of the way enough to remove the transaxle
> output flanges to install the diff kit...best way is to remove
> the drive axles to get the most working room...more tools needed...
> like a 30mm socket for the main axle nut (an impact wrench works
> well here, or a massive breaker bar), and don't forget to get two
> new axle nuts as they're supposed to be single use only.
> Naturally you'll also have to pop off the bearing carrier
> from the ball joints to get the clearances to remove the drive shafts...
> oh, and you might as well replace those shreaded ball joints while
> your at it...oh and it's easier to drill out the original ball
> joints while the a-arms are off the car.,.oh, and now would be a
> perfect time to replace those whipped rubber a-arm bushings...
> oh, and you had to remove the front sway bar, so now would be a
> good time to upgrade to a 22mm aftermarket bar...need a new front
> wheel bearing?  Now's the time...front rotors?  Front brakes?  Tie-rod
> or tie-rod end?  Stainless steel brake lines? Here ya go! Short shift
> kit while your under there?  At least do the shift bushings!  Doesn't
> your car DESERVE the best! :)
> 
> Now, do you _really_ want to fix that little leak? ;-)
> 
> I have SOOO been there. Enjoy!
> 
> ==Brett
> 
>  \/  '84 Scirocco (ITB racer 2B) | "Hot VW's, take two home. They're small"
> \/\/ '88 Scirocco 16v (Show), '85 Scirocco (Winter) | - brett@netacc.net
> 
> --
> Email problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org  To unsubscibe send
> "unsubscribe scirocco-l" in the message to majordomo@scirocco.org

--
Email problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org  To unsubscibe send
"unsubscribe scirocco-l" in the message to majordomo@scirocco.org