Re: paint - advice?

["StephyGee" <stephygee@prodigy.net>]

Having had my Roc repainted twice (once in sunny California and the next in
sunny New Mexico), I can only say one thing:  be sure to tell the painters
that the fender flares are NOT a part of the fenders, but an entirely
different piece.  What can happen is your fender flares getting painted so
they seemed a part of the fender (one piece).  It looks nice, but be very
careful as one crack and water will get under the paint and cause
bubbling/rust if left unchecked.  Be specific about them taking the roof
runners off and not allowing the paint to coagulate around the tiny, round
bolt-like mechanisms (s) in the groove.  This will chip eventually.   Have
them remove your bumpers and paint them separately (which will be par since
you're replacing the euro bumpers?).  This will give them easier/proper
access to the lower front spoiler.  You can remove the body kit yourself or
request they do it.  A good shop will a) remove them before painting anyway
or b) prep your car with adequate masking tape so you don't get the
"drippies" and "peelies" in the little nooks on the side skirt/front spoiler
area.  The back spoiler is a piece of cake.  They couldn't f*ck that up if
they tried...except maybe getting overspray on your tail pipe.  You can take
off the "bee sting" yourself or have them paint around the base....but must
be meticulous or this is a spot for chipping too.

Side molding areas:  tricky at best but your car can be painted with these
in place without overspray or noticeable gaps in new/old paint where the
molding and the body meets.

Base/clearcoat is good for California weather....integrated clearcoat/paint
being best for the harsh sunshine of the southwest.....and polyurethane
being best for the extremely harsh east coast weather.

Pro base/clear:  Looks pretty, can be buffed to a mirror shine, "sticks"
well to primered auto
Con base/clear:  Chips easy, lasts about 5 - 6 years in Cali weather

Pro Integrated/clear:  Durable, moderately shiny, sticks well
Con integrated/clear:  cannot apply additional clearcoat or have
professionally (body shop) buffed to mirror shine without leaving
heart-failure inciting swirl marks

Pro polyurethane:  A tank couldn't chip it
Con polyurethane:  VERY sticky to work with and tends to become a bit dull
without constant waxing/buffing

Well...that's my experience.  Good luck!

Steph

P.S.  A car paint job that you won't get angry if it chips yet will be worth
its weight in gold shouldn't run you more than $2K.  If you spend $5K on
that paint job, you better never drive it long distances (rock chips/road
kill/bug splats) :)





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