Re: Rebuilding 16v - tech

[Brett Van Sprewenburg <brett@shell.netacc.net>]

> Well, my plans are underway to rebuild a 2.0l 16V (from a Passat with 140 000km)
> to slap in my 81 rocco. The block was a freebie and I'm hoping that it's in good
> order.

Might want to dissassemble it and have a machine shop inspect it.  It's really
not very hard to take apart, and all you'd have to do would be keep track of
which piston/rod/bearings went where to put it back together...except that
now would be a perfect time to actually replace all those bearings...and clean
the oil passages in the crank, hone the cylinders,  etc... :)

> Question 1: I'm rebuilding the water pump and I realized that I need single
> pulleys. Which ones must I get inorder to do this swap. Will pulleys from a 8V
> work? If so, which ones?
> 
> Question 2: I'm ditching the a/c and its heavy bracket. I understand that I need
> to replace the old heavy alt bracket with a non a/c bracket. Once again, do I
> merely use a 8V bracket? Otherwise.....?

These two questions are closely related...anyway, the 8v non-AC waterpump pulley
will work, but I'm fairly certain that the belt will no longer line up to the crank
sprocket and/or the alternator pulley.  Ask Jim Jarrett for the exact list of
parts he have for this as he's doing the exact same thing, but he's keeping the
mondo A/C bracket as sourcing the non-A/C 16v brackets is expensive.   From what I
remember he'll be running a single belt system, non-A/C 16v crank pulley, 8v non-A/C
waterpump pulley, and 8v non-A/C alternator pulley on the 90amp 16v alt.

> 
> Question 3:  The block my friend gave me has two knock sensors. I understand
> that the Passats came with two knock sensors. Are the knock sensors from a 16V
> scirocco the same, with the same connections? I'll be using the CIS-E system
> from a 16V Scirocco if that info is of any use.

The knock sensors are all the same, they only differed in the amount of wire
length lead on them...that is if they are all of the newer Type II vintage. The
Type I's have the wire coming out the 'top' with the sensor 'hanging' all
below the wire, while the Type II sensors (all you can get now) have the
wire coming out the side 'middle' area (like a lollypop for lack of a better term).
All Type II's are interchangeable if the wire reaches.  Torque the Type II's to
11-15 ft/lbs.  To directly answer your question, use whichever one looks
the best, note that the electrical sesistivity of these devices is very very
high, and there was a recall of sorts to replace all the connectors with gold
pins.  In fact, if you buy a new knock sensor it'll have gold pins, and if you
buy them from Virtual World he'll send you the gold pins for the wiring harness
connector also. :)  PITA to replace though without the special Bosch tool to
take apart the connectors....paper clips work in a pinch though. ;) 

Here's another thing I've been recommending lately, and that's to use an
electrical contact enhancer for every sensor/harness/computer connector
while you have it all apart.  Suffering through drivability problems induced
through old or corroded electrics is a problem that's a real bitch to track
down.  I've been using DeOxit spray, expensive but worth it. 

Finally, carefully inspect your doner car wiring harness. I have had to replace
several connectors during my conversion to Motronic due to broken/exposed wires.
It's a wonder the doner car ran at all with the DPR & CTS wires cracked open...
maybe that's why is was a doner car...?

> 
> These are the first of a long string of quesions. I will have more as time
> progresses. Thanks for the patience!


This is probably the first of a long string of responses because I like questions
like this. I won't always have time to write this much. 
Thanks for reading it all. :)

> 
> TIA
> 
> Sal
> 

later!

==Brett

--
Email problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org  To unsubscibe send
"unsubscribe scirocco-l" in the message to majordomo@scirocco.org