Re: Sound Systems

["Mike" <lerb@redrose.net>]

I currently am reinstalling my system into another car! So here is what was
and what shall be again. I had 1 Jl 12W 6 in a 1.25 Cubic foot box ported to
specs that was powered by a fully bridged opti 150. My front stage was a
pair of 5 1/4 boston Acustics pro series components that were power by a 50
X 4 PPI. I used a set of 4x6s as my rear fill seeing that the rear fill
always has to be overcome by the fronts anyways and also is not very
important.. I just bought a 16V (well actually about three months ago) and
finally got all the mechanical things almost done sooooo now back to placing
the stereo (already out of my 8V thanks to my brother-in-law) into the 16V.
This is how this one is going to take place! I am going to mount either a 8"
in the bottow of the door with the 5 1/4 right above and the tweeter a
little higher or if that does not work out because of space (altho I have
done it already as long as the car has power windows) I may get a 6" in the
bottow 4" above that then the tweet. I am going to go with PPI for my amps
and also Moble Quarts for my stage (anyone need a lanzar opti 150?) I will
take the old Bostons and place them as rear fill just because they are a
more efficant speaker than what was there before. The back is going to be
two (at least so far) Jl 12W6s in series to lower the impediance back down
to 3 ohms. I am looking at the PPi 1200 to power those with 600 watts per
channel and I will probably just use my 50 X 4 for now for the stage. All of
this of course will be string together with various pieces of street wire
and acess. I already swapped the high output alternator from the 8v over to
the 16V. I should have no problem with 280 amps and the Gel cell battery I
have which is capable of delievering a 1000 amp hours on surge (damn did
this little gadget cost alot of money. If anyone here need CAPS don't pay
for those $100 a pop ones at audio places. I can get 1/2 and 1+ farad caps
from surplus computer grade computer for pennys!! I have a friend who
competes in stereo competitions all the time stand there and laugh at me
because I had a no named cap in my install (did not say lightening cap on
it). He laughed all the way up to the point I put 3 farads in my car and my
headlights did not even as much as blink when we were drawing way over 60 A
constant for more than 5 mins (NOW MIND U THIS MADE MY 4 GUAGE WIRE HOT!)
But I paid $6 dollars for 3 farads!!!!! He paid $125 for a farad that looked
pretty. Needless to say he sold his farad and now had over 4 farad himself
of computer grade caps in system that runs well over 5K watts ( and no this
is not pyramids way of reseolving power use!) I am talking turn your car on
close the doors and windows drive down the road a mile and still hear it
when you jump out of the other car sound (too much you say...well I agree
but he had nothing better to do with his 40K) granted he lost a piece to
look at in judgment at a competition but he sure did get alot of questions
as to how he was able to handle all that power without even so much as a
flicker of the berettas lights. I will be going to a show very soon and if
anyone needs a cap or two just let me know!
----- Original Message -----
From: James G. <ccastj1@prism.gatech.edu>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 5:48 PM
Subject: Sound Systems


>
> What kind of sound systems do you guys have? (other than stock)
>
> I thinking of getting a 5 1/4" component set for the front doors, a good
> pair of 4x6 for rear fill, and a 6 or 8" self-amplified bazooka tube.
>
> What works best for the component placement, esp. the tweeter? Right now
> i'm planning on flush mounting them in the doors, wherever there's a hole
> in the sheet metal, or i'll just cut my own hole.
>
> What's your setup like?
>
> -james
>
>
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