Coolant

["Ian" <e@sbbs.se>]

You definitely do not want to mix coolants, the new 'pink' coolant was
designed to 'last the service life of the engine and was designed with
all-aluminum engines in mind' - got that from a TSB, further along it says
CAUTION! G 012 A8D A1 (the coolant) must NEVER be mixed with ANY other
coolant.  Engine damage will result!
It does say that it may be used in older vehicles when the original coolant
is drained and flushed completely.

Hope this helps clarify, I can send you the TSB if you want.

Ian

-----Original Message-----
From: T Berk <tberk@mindspring.com>
To: stormer@erols.com <stormer@erols.com>
Cc: Scirocco List <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Date: Wednesday, February 17, 1999 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: oxs&more&more&relections on VW


>Stormer wrote:
>>
>> Thank you all for responding about my questions about the oxs sensor. I
>> am going to replace the sensor because it could probably do my car good.
>> Now i have looked and located where i have to install it. Mine is
>> located on the the exhaust manifold. What is the best way  of getting to
>> it? It seems a pretty tight  spot between where it is and the fire wall.
>> What kind of tool would best get the old sensor out and the new one in?
>
>There is a relatively low cost O2 sensor wrench that you can use to get
>the old one off and the new one in. Don't forget to put some anti-sieze
>(one that is safe for O2 sensors!) to prevent it from getting stuck next
>time. Replacement O2 sensors up in the manifold get hotter sooner and
>are most likely single wire models. Later cars (16vs?, headers) have the
>sensor located further downstream and need the triple wire jobbies
>because the other two wires act to heat up the sensor to operating
>temps.
>
>> Backgroud...
>> I just bought the car two months ago for $800 it's a 85 wolfsburg
><snip>
>> and it has 130k miles and all i have to say is i love it!!!!
>> And i will keep it forever.
>
>Of course you will!  ;)
>
>> I was replacing the
>> thermoswich in the radiator when i noticed the radiator fluid was the
>> color of blood. I know the radiator was replaced 1 year ago by the
>> previous owner ( side track- the previous owner kept all maintenence
>> records since the car  was new and passed it on to me- in a 3 ring
>> binder( this guy was  anal! and did all the work himself)). So why is
>> the radiator fluid red?
>
>Sounds like it is the VW red coolant that is meant to be used in cars
>like ours that require Phosphate free coolant. It's normal. My own was
>reddish Orange from Prestone. Don't use the normal Green stuff, it'll
>promote galling and other nasty inter metal reactions that can wreck the
>motor from the inside out. (Over time)
>
>I don't think you want to mix the two type of coolant. Gummyness will
>ensue, from what I've been led to believe. I could use some help in this
>area.
>
>> I added some full strength radiotor(1/3 gallon)
>
>What type/ kind? (Oh my god!, did he mix colors?!?)
>
>> fluid to make up for the fluid lost when replacing the switch.
>
>Not to be anal, but I'd not replace lost coolant system fluid with full
>strength stuff. Premix some according to your weather conditions and
>keep it in a well marked container for just this type of thing. By
>adding just coolant you run the risk of throwing off the mix.
>
>> the car
>> now runs cooller (about 100 c) which i like 'cause in city traffic i
>> dont have to worry about over heating.. But the fluid is still Blood
>> Red. Is my rocco a vampire?
>
>Other than sucking green stuff out of your wallet from time to time, no.
>How much the cooler running is the correct working of the thermo switch
>(prob) and how much is the new coolant (less likely but 1/3 gallon of
>anything should help)
>
>> Another thing i am going to take the advise
>> of replacing the vacuum hoses. I havent done this before; any tips?(will
>> replacing the vacuum tubes help acceleration and keep my idle from
>> studdering when i turn the wheel?)
>
>Most of these cars I know come with hard plastic lines w/ softer,
>braided rubber hoses stuck on each end to fit to the nipple (heh, heh).
>The plastic lines can be reused and work well, even color coded. The
>rubber hoses ends can be replaced with a two or three foot section
>purchased from any auto store and you cut it up yourself to fit. It will
>serve to return vacuum advance functions, restore air to fuel ratios
>thrown off due to (poss) air leaks, and will eliminate another source of
>worry or concern (how ever small) in your tracking down of nagging
>problems. And it's a cheap maintenance procedure.
>
>> Oh, and  my heater controls seem to
>> hiss at me and spit out black flakes out the vents; any way to fix this?
>
>What are the flakes made from? Are they debris pulled in to the ducts or
>perhaps some kind of deteriorating baffle, flex hose, foam rubber
>material? Need some spectro- analysis. Cars of this vintage & have A/C
>use vacuum lines to move the flaps in the A/C-Heater system. If it's
>hissing a bunch their may be a leaky hose, diaphragm, something. Yer
>gonna have to get up under their and track it down.
>
>> ( its raining black gravel in my car!)
>
>Sounds like a charcoal canister contents (don't see how it got in their
>tho') or hardened and crumbling foam rubber. Anyone else have this?
>
>> There also is a weird  aluminum
>> accordian 2in.wide x 2 ft long tube that seems to begin somewhere near
>> the radiator  and hang over the transmision open ended( not connected to
>> anything), like an intake for something , What is it? It doesnt match
>> anything else in the engine. Is it  Some government survellence thingy?
>
>I'm not allowed to speak about this.
>
>> Well i am going to be throwing out some more questions later (
>> especially body work- I have developed rust aound the fenders) But i am
>> finished for now.
>>
>> -Tom
>> '85 8v Wolfsburg-(Alpine Tripple White)
>
>
>Welcome to the fold, keep em' coming.
>
>TBerk
>
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