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Re: Who wants 11" brakes?



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>The product in question is a hardware kit that will let you bolt G60 or
>early VR6 calipers to your stock hubs.  You'll have to use 11" rotors, of
>course.  Why would you want 11" front brakes?  We had quite the little
>discussion about this in the spring (check the archives!), and the
>consensus among people who had done the conversion was that the bigger
>brakes improve feel/modulation, resist fade better, and generally stop your
>car faster.  The only downside is the price - you put slotted 10.1" rotors
>and Ferodos on your car, and you'll probably be stopping fast enough, for
>less money.  Well, here's what the 11" conversion will cost: $89US for ALL
>the hardware you'll need, plus whatever the calipers and rotors cost.  This
>is the least expensive conversion kit on the market, BTW.  As you know, you
>can find pretty cheap Brembos or ATEs from Potter/EM sport/whereever, and
>you can pull your own calipers from a yard or find them used on the net.
>And if you've got a 16v, don't forget your 10.1 stuff is worth something to
>an 8v or Rabbit driver....
>




One thing you have to remember is the larger you go your going to have to
take out some surface area
so your actually going to need to slot more of the rotor . which is what we
all want anyway for less brake fade.
ill state the obvious for some of us. the fact is sciroccos are fairly light
cars the larger you go the easier it will be to lock up your brakes. much to
easy . the 8v stocker rotors  on the mk1 i think we would all agree is not
nearly enouph stopping surface or power in order to safely stop the car
under performance conditions ie brake fade and the fact the surface area is
just not enouph. so we upgrade to the 10.1 rotors then your problem is to
much braking to easy to lock up the fronts. solution to that problem for
some is crossdrill where others go with slotted rotors. ( not about to go
into that conversation this time) two great things happen we have the
stopping power and surface we want and keeps the rotors from working so hard
in order to actually stop the car.  now going to the 11 inch rotors of which
i have personally installed onto several cars works very well but requires
even more slotting to take out more of the surface area out in order to keep
from locking up. there is also a dual caliper kit available in order to use
the 10.1 rotors to a better capacity.

the reason i brought that up is i would myself never install 11. inch rotors
onto my car .. one i would need to get larger wheels for clearence.. i
definatly do not want to do that one of two things. rotating mass. if you
have the same weight wheels one is a 14 inch and the other a 15 inch the
rotating torque pressures etc. is much greater on the 15 inch everything
suffers. no longer a great 20-60 when coming off the corners  . also heat is
much greater i know im getting way to technical but what it comes down to is
if you want a quick car  you really have to look at all aspects of the swap
maybe these things are not important to you and i apologize but just thought
id put that little bit of information out there for conideration.. this is
actually something that could go on for a couple days for discussion   i
only really touched on a couple of the points of no real depth..

hope this give some insight..

Mark Christiansen
EMsport/EMprecision
Performance parts for European Cars / AirCraft parts for Portable hospitals
industry


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