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[mk2][16v][cv][exhaust]



Well.  After lurking the past few months, I thought I'd come out of the
woodwork.  My rebuild project went well after my front end collision.  Body
shop friend of mine who did the work (cheap and under the table...thanks!)
said the body was still straight, and replaced hood and driver side fender
with used parts from Mark at ADD and other contributors.

Proceeded to modify airbox with ryan's air-ram setup, and put k&n in place.
also purchased the autotech fuel enrichment module - adds some nice high rpm
pull all the way to redline.  Definitely an improvement over stock,  but I
can see how you want the airbox mod/k&n and a low-restrict exhaust prior to
adding it.  Although, how much gain do you REALLY get from an aftermarket
system versus the OEM 16v stainless system?  Is it worth the $?

Put new mats in (thanks brett!) and added euro bumpers, euro lights, and
euro clear TS.  Looks hot.  Finally, stripped off factory pinstripe and ugly
black side moulding.

So my little white lightnin' is back on the streets stalking acuras and
mustangs, and surpassing many punks with it's abilities.

Unfortunately, I noticed that the driver side CV joint (I think it's the
inner one, can't recall), has a tear, and is leaking the grease/fluid.
Also, every now and then, I get a 'grumbling' from that general area under
acceleration.  I assume the joint needs to be replaced.  Even if I was just
going to replace the boot, I'd need to undo the driveshaft anyways, right?
So I may as well plan on doing both driver & passenger sides.
Comments/Suggestions?  I have the bentley, and my brother-in-law has the
special tool to undo the bolts that hold the driveshaft.

How long do you think I have before the affected joint shits the bed?  I
understand that if one of these breaks at speed, it's a bad thing.

Thanks, all, good to be back.  next up:  2.0 conversion!  Yow!

-john
jgies@skandia.com <mailto:jgies@skandia.com> 
'88 16v Alpine White

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