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Re: lower stress bars



I'll tell ya how worthless it is : ) (This should be taken in good fun, and I
understand what you're saying and I'm not saying it's untrue, however..)
    The frame broke on my old '86, right behind the back of the left control arm
mounting arm thingy. So when I accelerated, my front left wheel would go forward,
and the opposite happened when I braked. BAD. Undriveably bad. I slapped that
Neuspeed lower bar on and voila! I could drive the car again. Just fine. The point
is that those suspension mounting points are very resistant to being pulled
inwards, but are weak when they are pulled outwards. One look underneath the car
will reveal that this is just the way that they are designed. So the Neuspeed
lower bar, by pulling against the other side's mounting point, effectively keeps
both sides from flexing pretty darn well.
    BTW, I also had the car welded after I put on the stressbar.
    -Josiah

Matthew Yip wrote:

> --- Shawn C Meze <skerocdriver@juno.com> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 20 Apr 1999 04:31:37 -0700 (PDT) Matthew Yip <mgyip@yahoo.com>
> > writes:
> >
> > >The Neuspeed version is a two point which is almost worthless.
> >
> >
> > What makes it worthless?
>
> The fact that unless the stress is exactly perpendicular to the mounting
> points, it allows the unsupported lower suspension pickup points to flex.  The
> triangulated (4 point) version doesn't allow this to happen.  To better
> illustrate this, think about the triangulated rear stress bar that has been
> the recent topic of discussion.  While it works without the triangulation,
> it's effectiveness is reduced significantly.
>
> The rationale for the 2 point bar being worthless is that it's cost is roughly
> the same as the 4 point, triangulated version which is head and shoulders
> (ugh, a cliche) above the 2 point variety.
> ===
> Matthew Yip
> mgyip@yahoo.com
>
> '87 GTi 16v :)
> '88 M5
> '99 F350
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