Re: Intro to the Mailing List

[trnsfrma@ix.netcom.com (Shawn C. Meze)]

At 02:31 PM 12/11/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Split fire are too expensive. 

Not really, they're junk. Want a better plug? Go for the Bosh Silbers. Theyre a 
little expensive, but I have heard from people they're noticably better. Want 
another good plug? I have a tripple-trode plug by NGK. BPR6ET is the part 
number. I believe this plug is for the RX-7's but works great in my car. I have 
had this plug in my car for over a year and its working great. I think I paid 
just over $3.00 per plug. Still, its alot cheaper th
an the Sheisterfires. 


>Here's a list of most important things (on my opinion):
>1- good ignition system (plugs, coil, wires...)
>2- good intake (K&N, camshaft)
>3- good exhaust (Techtonics exhaust)

I think the exhaust is the biggest cause for power loss. The most can be gained 
from a better exhaust system, right off the bat. It doesnt have to be a TT 
system either. it can be any system at least 2" and no bigger than 2 1/2" 
(Unless your running a turbo or G-60) system. It needs to be Mandrel bent and 
for longevity sake, alumniumsed or stainless. 
If you have the C-clamp manifold, get rid of it. This is the worse flowing 
manifold VW ever made. Get yourself any dual downpipe other than one from an A2 
GLi. It wont work in our A1 cars. I have a diesil exhaust manifold and a custom 
made downpipe with the OX sensor in it. (The diesil manifold dont have the hole 
drilled and drilling is a manifold is somewhat pointless. Hardened steel eats 
drill bits dont cha know!) Once you've got a good flowing exhaust system, then 
go ahead and do the cam, if your looking to do so. 
The ignition system is pretty much as good as a system needs to be. Using the 
best quality wires is always a smart move to maintaing peak performance. There 
is a new wire on the market, very expensive, but after driving a car before and 
after the swap, its a definate improvement over any performance wire. (Doh, 
forgot the name) each wire stores the length of the spark from the distributor. 
At the end of each signal, it sends the while spa
rk to the plug. BANG! For an example, lets say a spark durration is 2 seconds. 
(I know, way off) 
                  Before
Start  |----------------------------| stop

What the wire does is saves the entire spark and delivers the whole punch in one 
pop.
                     after
             Start |--| stop

Its the same amount of voltage going to the plug as before, its just all at 
once. Its sort of like a mini Magnito in the amount of final power, but each 
plug wire acts like the mag.  Kinda neat huh! I want a set for my car!! 


>Also you cannot forget suspension. Sway bars (front and rear) are mandatory
>for less body roll. Strut bars aren't necessary unless you're running on
>bigger tires or lowered suspension. Stiffer (but not uncomfortable) shocks
>(Boge Pro Gas) are a great dd on too.

Alot of people dont realize that there is alot to be gained from simply doing 
the chassis upgrades and leaving the motor alone. Making your car handle better 
actually makes it a faster car. All the power you lost in corners and on the 
road can now be put to the wheels instead of making up for lost momentum.


>Anyawy, If you put everything I told you on your car you'll spend roughly
>$1000 dollars, which may seem too much. For cheap performance, stick with the
>following:
>1- K&N filter                                 $35
>2- Techtonics exhaust                 $300
>3- Bosch plugs                               $8
>4- Bosch coil                                $40
>5- euro GTI camshaft                     $95
>                                                 --------
>Total-------------------->                    $478


Do the K&N. 
You can get a less expensive exhaust system for around $150 or so.
Whatever kind of plugs you want really. 
Skip the coil.
No real need for the cam. 

Also you can shop for some of these parts on the net. I have gotten so many used 
parts from the VW newsgroup that is how I can afford to have all the go fast 
parts I have. My entire Suspension is used. 
(22mm Front/28mm Rear swaybars, upper lower stress bars for $225.00!) 
Not everything has to be new. 

>All this above is for a non-racing street car. A racing car would be much
>more expensive, with big valve cylinder head, suspension upgrades, brakes
>upgrades, etc.. then we'd be dreaming. 

Not true. I race my daily driver. Granted its not a full out race car but all I 
would need to do is gut the interior and remove the A/C and it would be one. To 
date, I have grand total of just over $6000 invested in my car. (Check out my 
mod sheet!) which is much cheaper than any new car and I wouldnt have the 
performance that my 15 yr old car has.
(I just got a used close ratio box off the net with a taller 5th gear and the 
Velocity 80% diff kit! Gotta go install my new toy!)

>I hope this is of any help. Sorry for the lengthy letter.

I like seeing other people opinion on this sort of stuff. Im no expert, im just 
sharring what I know to be true. 


Shawn
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