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Brake Upgrades
Pulp Friction (GRM Brake Primer)
			Scirocco Brake Upgrades?
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> 
> I just bought an 84 *v and discussed with several people upgrading the brakes
> to bigger discs and discs on the rear.  The consensus was that there was not
> enough improvement in braking to go through all that hassle on the 84.  The
> best way to improve braking (as discussed) was to go to Stainled brake hoses,
> Metal Master Pads, and move to ATE Super Blue Brake fluid.  Just my two bits.
> 
> John
> 


Get ready for another possible inclusion for the FAQ...

Here's the run down, by the numbers:

Pads:

You probably do not want to use Axxis, Metal Masters, the hard Mintex Pads or 
any other of their metallic ilk. The reason they generate little dust 
is that they do very little braking, especially when cool or wet.  They will 
also eat your rotors, rather then wearing themselves.

Spend the extra money on pads, it's worth being able to stop in all conditions.
Buy Ferodos, Hawks, or Pagids.  These companies make several different compounds
for different driving or track styles.  I personally find the street compound 
3466 Ferodos are a really great allaround pad, with very good initial cold 
grab and little if any fade when hot.


Rotors:

If your car has unvented 9.4's, it's worth it to upgrade to vented 9.4 for
less heat generated brake fade.  You just need to use thinner pads. 
Your master cylinder doesn't need to changed.

If your car has vented 9.4's, it's worth it to upgrade to vented 10.1's, again
for less heat generated brake fade, a larger pad, and greater braking through
increased swept area.  If you're planning on doing some engine tuning, this
is probably a good idea. Your master cylinder will need to be changed.

If your car has vented 10.1's, it's probably not worth it to upgrade to 11's.
As our cars are fairly light, with under 150hp the norm, massive brakes aren't
as useful unless you're after the looks or have really pumped up the engine.
Your master cylinder doesn't need to be changed.

If your car has rear drums, it's probably not worth it to upgrade to rear 9.4
discs unless you want the looks or convenience of pads.  I have owned and
driven both kinds of Sciroccos and I find the car with the rear discs is
easier to modulate, but about equal in braking effectiveness.  The four wheel
disc cars have had better pedal feel, for what it's worth.  Your master
cylinder will need the rear disc proportioning valves if you do this mod.

Fluid:

For spirited street driving, autocross, and even some track use, fill up with
Castrol GTLMA. Great all round, low moisture absorbtion, and high boiling point.

If you want a slightly higher coolness factor (with an associated higher 
moisture absorbtion) go with the ATE super blue.  Very effective, but stay
on top of flushes.

If you want some of the best, buy Ford Heavy Duty.  It's the same stuff as
the ultra expensive Castrol racing or something like that. (The exact name of
the ultra expensive Castrol stuff escapes me at the moment)


Brake lines:

The braided stainless steel lines are a great idea, as long at the lines are
protected with some sort of heavy walled rubber tube so that dirt doesn't
get caught in the braid and abraid the plastic line.  Some people have
experienced blowouts with SS lines, probably due to exactly what I outlined
above.


Please feel free to make additions or critiques. 

==Brett

 

Pulp Friction
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