Coil Checking & Replacement Options

[Cory_Langford at bcit.ca (Cory Langford)]

I think bently had a test procedure that checked the resistance between the
coil output and one of the input terminals, and between the two terminals.
This might help.

As for the blaster coil.  I installed a blaster 3 coil on the roc, because
it was on sale at a local shop and ended up being cheaper than a
replacement bosche coil.  The blaster 3 worked great.  Can't say it was any
better than the bosche, simply because the old one died and this one worked
:)

The blaster 3 needs to have the coil wire modified so you have the correct
end on it (comes with the coil), but I think the blaster 2 has the correct
terminal for our wire set.

The only reason to go with the blaster coil, I found, is if you can get it
cheaper, or need it specifically for your install.  I relocated the coil
when I installed the G60 engine in to the mk1, and I decided to go with the
Blaster SS so I could simply mount it anywhere I felt like it with out
worry of it being in the write direction so the oil can cool it correctly,
etc. The SS fit quite nicely  upside down, in front of the charger...

Cory Langford


foxxinabox@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote on 11/06/2007 01:05:18 PM:

>   Am I to assume that the coils on our cars either work or they don't?
Just
> curious in regards to my '85 burning rich and occasionally stumbling
under
> full throttle though the timing is set correctly and the fuel distributor
is
> set midway between rich and lean.
>   I also have a number of coils from parts cars and was wondering if
there is
> a way to test them other than simply installing them (with an ohm
> meter, perhaps).
>   Lastly, when in the parts store it appears that MSD makes a coil of
similar
> size for $46. Is that something worth looking into or simply paying for a
> name? Thanx.
>
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