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Con rod bolt Q



Thanks Ron, that did the job.

Here is a picture of my setup:
<<http://www.pominville.ca/VW/rodboltsremoval.jpg>>

One or two sharp blow on the bolts ends with nuts flush knocked them out of
their holes.

The yellow plastic thingy survived with barely a scratch...

Cincy 2007 motor prep work:
All the clearances are within specs.
Crankshaft main, radial and axial play OK. Crankshaft rod, radial and axial
play OK.
All four cylinders measured OK. Ring end gaps OK.
All four pistons (83mm) fitted to the rods.

Need to get the crankshaft end machined to fit the later TDI timing belt
pulley.

Missing a few bolts here and there, and I'll be tempted to get new ones,
especially the front bolts holding the misc stuff on the block.

Head work is all done.

Three months left...

Cheers.

Marc

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Ron Pieper [mailto:rapieper@yahoo.com] 
> 
> It's been 15+ since years since I did this on Chevy and 
> Pontiac engines...seems it was pretty much as you described 
> as far as getting them out...putting the new ones in 
> correctly requires attention to ensure that they sit cleanly 
> and that you don't ding anything in the process.  This would 
> include threads, mating surfaces, etc.  Not rocket science - 
> just be attentive and careful.
> 
> Ron
> 
> --- Mtl-Marc <marc_scirocco@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 
> > I'd like to remove the connecting rod bolts to replace them 
> with ARP 
> > bolts on my 2l motor.
> > 
> > Nothing about this on the Bentley. Nothing about this on 
> ARP's web site.
> > 
> > On google I found Ford guys doing this: they spin the nut so it is 
> > flush with the end of the bolt and they tap the con rod 
> bolt out using 
> > a nylon hammer.
> > 
> > Anyone did this, or anyone has a different method to use?
> > 
> > Cheers.
> > 
> > Marc
> > 
> >