differential took a poop

[vwdaun at yahoo.com (Daun Yeagley)]

--- C Boyko <roccit_53@scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca> wrote:

> Just replace it with a stock one from your local FLAPS
> (Napa, whatever). I
> always just get a whole axle, that way I'm not playing in
> the used grease
> as much, though some places sell them without the grease
> in them, so you'll
> be putting new grease in.

I'm guessing that may be one of those Canadian / US things.
 You have to grease it yourself in the U.S.  (I guess I
should open the box with a fresh axle in it that I just got
for Deiter 'eh?)

Anyway,
> Daun and I have all kind of happy (?) memories about
> doing these in the
> field. You will need a bigass socket for the hubnut, a
> 30mm I think?

Correct.  Caution, I've broken two breaker-bars over the
years on the axle nut.  Now if your car never spent time in
the north, then it'll come off much easier.

Let us know how you make out.  Cathy's got a pretty good
writeup on the procedure.

> Someone confirm that. And you'll also need another
> oddball tool, a triple
> square (spline drive) bit for the bolts on the tranny
> end. They should pop
> off easily, they don't get torqued in too tight. So with
> the car on the
> ground, free up that hub nut, it'll be on there good. I
> always need to get
> an old fencepost on my biggest breaker bar, and really
> reef on it to get it
> to crack. Just make sure the socket's on that nut good
> and square. Slack
> off the lug bolts, then jack up the car, support it on
> jackstands, with
> wheel chocks and ebrakes on, and remove the wheel. Then
> remove the innner
> bolts one at a time. Clean out the heads with a pick and
> tap the bit into
> place to make sure you don't strip them out, which would
> suck. This will
> involve rotating them into a place where you can access
> them as you move
> around that flange. I've been trained to use a series of
> wobbly extensions
> and a big long extension so I can actually do it without
> getting under the
> car. With luck, you can position the wheel to allow the
> hub end to pull
> out, and you're good. On my 16V I've detached the ball
> joint and some of
> the underpinnings to do the DS one, not sure if it's an
> absolute necessity
> or not. Hub nut torque is listed as 173 ftlbs, which is
> to the RFT spec
> (Really Fucking Tight) You don't want that bad boy
> wandering off on you. 33
> ftlbs for the little axle bolts, which is NOT RFT, more
> like NTTAA (not
> that tight at all). Something like that anyway.
> Ah, the memories. Daun and I did two of these in the
> Buffalo Airport
> parking lot. We sure know how to have fun. GL eh?
> Cathy




Daun Yeagley - Wilmington Ohio
'81 Scirocco S (Deiter)       '86 Scirocco 8v
'88 Scirocco Slegato (Gino!)  '88 Scirocco 16v
'96 Passat GLX Wagon          '56 Cessna 172
The first rule of intelligent tinkering is to save all the parts - Ehrlich's Law.


 
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