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Rear Shocks
Larry,
In most other states the sleeve and bolt becomes a single piece of metal,
even after heating and cutting the sleeve/bolt into 3 pieces, it's usually
still stuck together.
I have a cordless Dremel, but I only use that for more precise work.
For the shock bottom mount, I would use my IR inline air-drill, with a small
cut-off wheel.
I usually use one of my famous 4 1/2" grinders, with a 4" cut-off, to cut
off the sleeve/bolt, because it cuts deeper, and it's easier to control the
larger tool, and it doesn't walk around as much.
I wasn't trying to tell you anything, I was trying to help Karl, not waste
my time, (like cutting the bolt), and then I was only defending myself/my
viewpoint, like I am now.
It's been as aggravating as doing the actual job. :)
From: Karl
So much for that bolt..............I used a sawzall and a 4" hand grinder
with a 4" cutoff disk and the darn thing was cut in half and still wouldn't
budge. After another 1-2 hrs I got everything off. Now the real question
anyone know what size it was?
I'm thinking 10mm x ??
Karl
I think that's right, Karl, and I believe it's X1.5, but as long as the
"nut" is the same, it really doesn't matter.
Thanks...
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: LEF [mailto:rocco16@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:47 PM
To: Peter; scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rear Shocks
It is nice.
You forgot to apply the heat and the patience. :)
If you're trying to tell me you can cut, with a Dremel, an 8mm
bolt...twice...in 20 minutes, then I have to say "Right."
Finally defeating a stubborn bolt on it's own terms is worth the time...to
me
I'm not trying to tell you guys you have to do it my way. I'm simply giving
those among you who want some encouragement an option. I'm not giving you
an argument, I'm giving you a choice.
Sheesh.
There are a few of you who would argue with me if I said this was a great
group of car lovers.
larry
sandiego16v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter" <peter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "'LEF'" <rocco16@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: Rear Shocks question
> It must be nice to live in San Diego, California...
>
> I have a ~gallon refill container of PB Blaster, and it has the same
> result.
> I've also tried a lot of other different penetrating oils, with the same
> result.
>
> When the shaft of the bolt completely rusts to the sleeve, it will not
> easily come apart, and my time is not worth wasting, trying to break free
> a
> rusted bolt, when I can cut it off instead, and replace it with a new one,
> in about 20 minutes, or so.
>
> Time can not be replaced, but bolts can...
>
> Peter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: LEF [mailto:rocco16@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 11:52 AM
> To: Peter; 'Cris Carpenter'; scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Rear Shocks question
>
> I've yet to see a frozen bolt that heat, time, patience, perseverance, and
> good penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) won't take care of.
>
> larry
> sandiego16v
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter" <peter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "'Cris Carpenter'" <housecall55@xxxxxxxxx>; <scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 8:20 AM
> Subject: RE: Rear Shocks question
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Cris Carpenter
>>
>> We used to get the bolts to loosen up in the sleeves by heating them up
>> real
>> hot with an acetylene torch (you can only heat the exposed ends so it
>> takes
>> a while before the heat gets inside the sleeve), and then rattling them
>> out
>> with an air chisel. The idea is to get the rust holding the bolt to the
>> sleeve so hot that it disintegrates, but that technique requires those
>> tools. Another alternative is to bend the tangs of the lower supports out
>> to
>> allow some access and cutting the bolt off both sides with a metal
>> cutting
>> sawzall.
>>
>> Cris
>>
>>
>> Just a heads up...
>>
>> You have to be really careful torching gas charged shocks, because they
>> can
>> explode.
>> If they're Mk.1 factory shocks, then they're hydraulic shocks, so it
>> should
>> be okay.
>>
>> I usually try using a MAP gas torch, but I cut the round bottom shock
>> mount
>> off first to remove the shock, before I torch the rubber away, to expose
>> the
>> sleeve, so I don't have to worry about an explosion, and to help heat up
>> the
>> sleeve.
>> 3 out of 4 times, I usually end up having to cut the sleeve off anyway,
>> and
>> this is after getting them cherry red, and spraying WD-40, or water on
>> it,
>> to help cool them off.
>>
>> Having the bolt seize up in the sleeve, is really common around here(east
>> coast), and I always use anti-seize on the bolts, so it doesn't happen
>> again.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Message: 12
>> Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 02:15:57 +0000
>> From: silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: Rear Shocks question
>> To: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Message-ID:
>>
>>
>
<081920070215.2475.46C7A7DD000E49BE000009AB2206424613CBCE9C9A079004079C@comc
>> ast.net>
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain
>>
>> O.K.....so I got me some KYB Gas-A-just shocks for the rear and started
>> on
>> the Passenger side. I was amazed at how easy it was to replace.
>> I'd say it took me 30-40 minutes to replace. I know that's probably
>> slow.
>>
>> Now I tackle the Driver side............4 hrs later and I still haven't
>> gotten the old sachs shock off. The issue I'm having is that I was able
>> to
>> remove the nut, but the bolt won't budge..........any ideas????
>> I was thinking about using a dremel and cut off wheels and cut the the
>> bottom half of the cylinder with the bolt thru it and then cut the bolt
>> in
>> half and replace.
>>
>> What have others done??
>>
>> Karl
>>
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