Rear Shocks question

[peter at thescirocco.com (Peter)]

It must be nice to live in San Diego, California...

I have a ~gallon refill container of PB Blaster, and it has the same result.
I've also tried a lot of other different penetrating oils, with the same
result. 

When the shaft of the bolt completely rusts to the sleeve, it will not
easily come apart, and my time is not worth wasting, trying to break free a
rusted bolt, when I can cut it off instead, and replace it with a new one,
in about 20 minutes, or so. 

Time can not be replaced, but bolts can...

Peter 

-----Original Message-----
From: LEF [mailto:rocco16@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 11:52 AM
To: Peter; 'Cris Carpenter'; scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rear Shocks question

I've yet to see a frozen bolt that heat, time, patience, perseverance, and
good penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) won't take care of.

larry
sandiego16v


----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter" <peter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "'Cris Carpenter'" <housecall55@xxxxxxxxx>; <scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 8:20 AM
Subject: RE: Rear Shocks question


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cris Carpenter
>
> We used to get the bolts to loosen up in the sleeves by heating them up 
> real
> hot with an acetylene torch (you can only heat the exposed ends so it 
> takes
> a while before the heat gets inside the sleeve), and then rattling them 
> out
> with an air chisel. The idea is to get the rust holding the bolt to the
> sleeve so hot that it disintegrates, but that technique requires those
> tools. Another alternative is to bend the tangs of the lower supports out 
> to
> allow some access and cutting the bolt off both sides with a metal cutting
> sawzall.
>
>  Cris
>
>
> Just a heads up...
>
> You have to be really careful torching gas charged shocks, because they 
> can
> explode.
> If they're Mk.1 factory shocks, then they're hydraulic shocks, so it 
> should
> be okay.
>
> I usually try using a MAP gas torch, but I cut the round bottom shock 
> mount
> off first to remove the shock, before I torch the rubber away, to expose 
> the
> sleeve, so I don't have to worry about an explosion, and to help heat up 
> the
> sleeve.
> 3 out of 4 times, I usually end up having to cut the sleeve off anyway, 
> and
> this is after getting them cherry red, and spraying WD-40, or water on it,
> to help cool them off.
>
> Having the bolt seize up in the sleeve, is really common around here(east
> coast), and I always use anti-seize on the bolts, so it doesn't happen
> again.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
>
>  Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 02:15:57 +0000
> From: silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Rear Shocks question
> To: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID:
>
>
<081920070215.2475.46C7A7DD000E49BE000009AB2206424613CBCE9C9A079004079C@comc
> ast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
> O.K.....so I got me some KYB Gas-A-just shocks for the rear and started on
> the Passenger side.  I was amazed at how easy it was to replace.
>  I'd say it took me 30-40 minutes to replace.  I know that's probably 
> slow.
>
> Now I tackle the Driver side............4 hrs later and I still haven't
> gotten the old sachs shock off.  The issue I'm having is that I was able 
> to
> remove the nut, but the bolt won't budge..........any ideas????
>  I was thinking about using a dremel and cut off wheels and cut the the
> bottom half of the cylinder with the bolt thru it and then cut the bolt in
> half and replace.
>
> What have others done??
>
> Karl
>
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