Stuck rear caliper (16v disc brakes)

[smithma7 at gmail.com (Mike Smith)]

When I replaced my shot pads with not-as-shot-pads at Brian's last
year, the piston was a PITA to press in.  Had to be turned with a
wrech just a fraction of a turn and then pressed in with a pair of
plyers (or something like that).  Turn, press, repeat ad nauseum.
IIRC, there's also a tool specific for this purpose.

HTH...

On 9/16/06, Nate Lowe <nlowe79@gmail.com> wrote:
> So I went out to replace the brake pads on my '79 today (full 16v brake
> conversion) and I got the front pads on fine with no problems (except a
> cheap ass 13mm socket that broke removing the first caliper).
>
> The rear pads were a different story. Or to be more precise, the driver's
> side rear pads (I didn't even try the passenger side since I couldn't get
> the driver's side on). When I got the caliper bolts removed, the caliper was
> still tight on the pads and was hard to pull off. Then, when I tried to push
> the piston back into the caliper with a 4" C-clamp, it would not budge. I've
> heard of the brake cable sticking on 16v's (I think) so I removed the spring
> that holds tension on it and tried to manually push it back thinking that
> would help. No dice.
>
> So the question I have is if this is a common problem and what steps should
> I take to fix it?
>
> Oh, and a bit of info, all the pads seemed to still have about 1/2 life left
> in them even though my braking performance has noticably decreased. The car
> still stops reliably, but not with the "bite" it had before. Maybe the rear
> calipers aren't working at all right now?
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-- 
Mike
'86 red 16v: Red 5 (aka der Jahrtausendfeierfalke)
"The world is my oyster soup kitchen floor wax museum." - King Crimson