3 shift linkage upgrades, my installation/driving impressions (long)

[roccit_53 at scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca (C Boyko)]

DISCLAIMER: This is just opinion, nothing else. But for those thinking of 
building linkage parts, or buying an aftermarket setup, it may be helpful.

So...I've been mucking with linkages on three A1s in the past few days,
I'll give before and after impressions.
Before: 
1987 16V: This car had the linkage upgraded five years or so ago, with
fresh bushings and a TT short shift kit. It's never shifted nicely, though
I've spent more than my share of time undoing that clamp and adjusting the
rotation of the shift rod. The bearing on this rod was tired, so replacing
it was needed. Lots of left/right play on the gear shifter (like 1-2"?).
1979 MkI: This car always shifted really well, so why not mess with it? I'd
say it was about as good as you could get for stock.
1988 Cabby: I'd installed the majority of a bushing rebuild kit a year ago,
and it was still really floppy at the stick. Like 2" of side to side play.
More inspection revealed that the shift rod bearing was looking like any 20
year old rubber would when it lives beside the exhaust. Fragmented, even.

So, the upgrades: (using Bentley terminology)
1987 16V: It got the Scott Rose linkage, which requires sending in a core.
Position of the joint on the selector shaft lever (the bent flat piece on
the tranny) is lower than the stock position, and the other two selector
rods come already attached to the L shaped relay lever. Also, the rear
selector rod is lacking the kink that you'd find in the stock one.

Anyway, as always, working under the 16V is a greasebath, but it all went
in fine, I did need to add a few bushings, so it's wise to have a normal
linkage rebuild kit on hand. This setup is totally solid, with (sp?) heim
joints that bolt though the various holes on linkage parts. It's also
completely adjustable, I set it up with lengths similar to what was in
there (and I think I need to skightly lengthen the back one). I also
replaced the shift rod bearing with the high density urethane one from
Missing Linkz/4 crawler. It requires removal of the bracket, but it was
super easy to do. Adjustment with a cassette case to measure shift finger
clearance worked well, and the first drive was good enough to leave alone.
Second gear is a bit tough to find in rapid shifting, so it will get
adjusted today. In combination with the TT short shsift kit set up on
"shortest", it's such a short distance to reach the gears that you can't
believe it's actually in gear. It takes one drive to get used to. The only
two drawbacks are cost, and the fact that you need to get under the car to
adjust it, as the selector rod ends are not "snap on/off". I can live with
that :) It is the most solid feeling of these three, and has finally cured
what ailed this car's shifting.

1979 8V: Klausie gets the less expensive version of everything, it seems,
and he got the Missing Linkz/4 Crawler selector rods and their short shift
add-on. This last bit would be easy to fab up, or you could simply weld a
chunk of metal on there, but it wasn't huge money, and I knew I'd never get
around to it otherwise. They suggest not putting it at full short right off
the bat, but what's the point of that? For this whole installation/adjustment, I never lifted the car, how's that for lazy? This setup has joints which are "pop-on/off" deals, and threads on the rod ends for adjustability. I adjusted it to the same lengths as what was there, with the short shift part at full short, and went for a drive. I was missing 1/2 gears entirely. This would normally mean crawling under the car, but a significant legthening of the rear selector rod found them for me, again, done from topside. For the money, this is a nice upgrade, shifting is firmer and shorter, more positive, and I really like it! (not as firm/short as the Scott Rose one, but less money too eh?) This car got no additional bushings. The only downside is that the engine is friggin hot on the arms when you're adjusting it :)

I'm wondering if replacing just the top connecting link (the one with the
pins through it) would do quite a bit to clean up shifting.

1988 Cabby: I replaced the shift rod bearing with the Missing Linkz
urethane one, and I noticed that the relay lever (that L shaped thing with
the balls on it) was wobbly, the bushings in it were shot, so they got
replaced. The slop is somewhat better, but there's still somthing floppy
here. It finds gears okay, so for now, it'll stay as is.

The summary?
1987 16V: TT short shifter, new bushings/bearings/Scott Rose setup =
goodest :O

1979 8V: stock with Missing Linkz short shift attachment and "solid"
linkage = still pretty damn good :D

1988 cabby with new bushings/bearings = good enough... :)

Oh, I have pictures of the various bits....

Cathy