DIY alignments?

[gforbess at attglobal.net (Gordon Forbess)]

On Sat, 21 May 2005 08:34:40 -0400, "Dan Bubb" <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com>
wrote:

>Some?????
>We're you anticipating me???
>I don't think my approach is jury rigged since none of my cars has seen a 
>"professional" alignment shop since 1986.
>A digital level or a regular level and an adjustable triangle are more than 
>accurate enough for camber if you have a level surface (or level pads) to 
>set your car on.
>As far as toe, which is far more critical to tire wear than camber, that can 
>be adjusted using parallel strings set up around the car.
>It takes time (less if you have some dedicated items) and you need to pay 
>attention for it to be accurate, but it's an approach used by many racers. 
>My tires have always had even wear across the tread using this method.
>As part of our GTG/tech day today we will be doing this alignment method on 
>Chris Bennet's car. We'll take pictures and post so y'all can see how simple 
>it is.
>I guess it's worth pointing out that if you don't have a level surface or 
>can't create one with 4 pads that are leveled, then this approach is not 
>good!

I was surprised how well my DIY alignment worked after replacing a
bunch of front end parts.  I made a special block to span the wheel
center that contacted just at the outer rim.  This more or less
eliminates the variables of the tire.  Held vertically with a 4'
level, the camber can be easily set.  Mine's at about an eighth of a
bubble negative.

An adaptation of the string method for setting toe is: I turn the same
block horizontal and (using the level again) project the extreme front
and rear points of each wheel down to the floor.  The lines on the
floor you extend forward from the rears provide the reference point
for straight ahead.  The lines extended from the front wheels show
where you need to lengthen or shorten each tie rod to get parallel
with the rears.  Once that's achieved, you can concentrate on the toe
by measuring the distance between the lines (ahead and behind the
axle) projected from the front wheels.

You need, in addition to a level surface, a clean enough floor to draw
the lines on and room enough to roll the car a half turn of the wheels
back and forth.  Each adjustment needs to be checked in both
positions.

Having said all this, I only did this to get it close enough to drive
it to an alignment shop.  Problem is it drives so well and, after
several thousand miles, the tires are wearing normally so that I never
made it to the shop.  YMMV
Gordon

75 Mk I/Drake 1.9
http://pws.prserv.net/gforbess/scirocco/scirocco.htm