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oil pump gasket?? <long tech reply>



calimus wrote:

> Fishing up the wifes cabby project and I'm slapping on a 2L oil pump.  Take
> the old 1.8l pump off and I find no gasket.  No gasket came with the new
> pump either.  Check a few sources and no one seems to seel a gasket.  So did
> VW go with no oil pump gasket.  Garanted the surfaces are fer clean and
> looks like they don't need one, but this seems odd to me.  So can anyone
> give me a difinitive answer on this?
> 
> William Snyder
> 

Water Pump? Yes.

Oil Pump? No.

You need to do a lash test across the face of the pump (as in do the 
gears move around too much)... wait one, checking manual...


Step 20. Remove Oil Pump and Check Backlash

Now that the oil pan has been removed, you can see the metal crankshaft 
with connecting rods that fasten to the pistons. The oil pump is that 
silver thing with the protruding arm. On the bottom of the arm is a 
deflector plate and inside the plate is a strainer. The deflector plate 
helps combat oil surge occurring when you drive around corners too fast. 
Anyway, the pump is held inside the crankcase by two 13 mm bolts. Remove 
the two 13 mm bolts and attendant washers, withdraw the oil pump and 
clean it.

Lever off the deflector plate so you can get at the strainer, then clean 
out any foreign particles which may have accumulated. Squirt some 
solvent up inside that arm to get into the body of the pump.

Disassemble the pump to clean it more thoroughly by removing the two 
10mm bolts and washers holding the arm to the body. Pull off the arm and 
you'll see two pump gears. Carefully clean any junk from inside the pump 
body and arm.

You now have have to check the operation of the pump by measuring the 
backlash. Turn to chapter Nine.

<Damn! I typed all that crap for nothing. tb>

 From Chapter 9, Procedure 5

Step 8 Check backlash.

Clean out the inside of the pump with some solvent and let it drain a 
minuet.Break out your feeler gauge and stick 0.20mm (.008) blade between 
the pump gears as shown in the diagram. If the blade's too thick and 
wont fit don't fret- all is well so far.Should there be too much play 
between the gears and the blade, the pump gears are too worn and need to 
be replaced.

Find a metal straight edge and lay it across the the top of the pump 
directly over the gears. Push the gears down into the pump and measure 
the clearance between the top of the gears and the bottom of the 
straight edge. If the clearance is greater than 0.15mm (.006 in) you 
need a new pump.

New pumps don't come with a strainer or stainer housing, so you'll have 
to pry off the strainer and strainer housing from your old pump and 
install them on the new one. Clean the strainer and the housing 
thoroughly with kerosene, gasoline, or solvent. make sure the strainer 
and housing seat properly - important.

As an added precaution, lets brush the crankshaft and the connecting 
rods with solvent or kerosene.Put a 19mm socket on the end of the drive 
shaft and rotate it a full revolution, 360 degrees and clean off any oil 
from the crankshaft with solvent. You'll be looking at it from the hole 
left by the oil pump.

=============================
OK, thats all the typing on this I'll transcribe from the How the Keep 
you VW Alive book, unless requested. As it is it's overkill but I got I 
the groove.


TBerk