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WAS: Tightening head bolts , NOW: torque wrenches
- Subject: WAS: Tightening head bolts , NOW: torque wrenches
- From: juliemac57 at hotmail.com (Julie Macfarlane)
- Date: Wed Feb 4 06:24:25 2004
I have a beam type but to tighten the head bolts, I borrowed a clicker
type.With the amount of torque needed to seal the gasket its a LOT easier to
just feel and hear the click then to stay over the top of the beam and read
it.
And the engine was on a stand. I put one foot on the rear wheel bar and
REALLY leaned into it. But it came out all right. It was easier to do in the
car.....
Julie Macfarlane
1981 MKI 2L 16v
Amsterdam NY
>From: "L F" <rocco16v@netzero.net>
>To: "David Utley" <mr.utility@highstream.net>,"T. Reed" <treed2@wsu.edu>
>CC: chris gonzalez <chris24g@yahoo.com>, scirocco-l@scirocco.org, Jeff
>Toomasson <jtoomasson@yahoo.com>
>Subject: WAS: Tightening head bolts , NOW: torque wrenches
>Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:25:11 -0800
>
>Neither is necessarily more accurate in daily use (although my nod would go
>to a recently-calibrated clicker), but the clicker certainly is easier to
>use and as anyone who has studied manufacturing knows, the easier it is to
>use.. the easier it is to use RIGHT.
>This is once case where I vote for new technology over old skool.
>
>Larry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Utley
> To: T. Reed
> Cc: chris gonzalez ; scirocco-l@scirocco.org ; Jeff Toomasson
> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 2:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Tightening head bolts on engine stand?
>
>
> Ah, but the pointer type gets out calibration because of use, not
>improper
> storage... :-)
>
> Those pointer types get weaker and weaker with use, so therefore the
>more you
> use it, the likely you are to be under-torquing...
>
> At least, this is what I have been told (by folks much smarter than
>I)...
> --
> Regards,
> David Utley
> -----------
> Cable Volkswagen
> 405-470-3129
> 1-800-522-6793
>
>
> Quoting "T. Reed" <treed2@wsu.edu>:
>
> > Have to agree with their preference.
> >
> > The clicker type always seem to click AFTER the bolt breaks. And if
>you
> > leave them sitting without returning the dial to the zero position
>they
> > get out of calibration.
> >
> > The pointer type shows you exactly what you're putting on the bolt as
>its
> > happening. It's "analog" and the clicker type is "digital".
> >
> > Heh, I'm a nerd.
> >
> > -Toby
> >
> > On Tue, 3 Feb 2004, chris gonzalez wrote:
> >
> > > Ah, yes I was using raceware studs/fasteners on my diesel. Make sure
>you
> > chase the threads and blow out the bolt holes, or your torque readings
>will
> > be different for each bolt. Oh, and raceware themselves recommend
>using the
> > beam type torque wrench vs. click or dial torque wrenches. They went
>as far
> > as to say they recommend NOT using click or dial wrenches.
> > >
> > >
> > > Jeff Toomasson <jtoomasson@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > My worry was whether lifting with the stretch bolts partially
>torqued
> > would
> > > damage them any...
> > >
> > > The 180' turn comes directly from the Bentley and only applies to
>stretch
> > > bolts (which BTW should be done with the breaker bar and NOT the
>torque
> > > wrench! :) IIRC, Diesels use head studs because of the ultra high
> > > compression. Gas engines using studs like ARP or Raceware need to be
> > > retorqued too...
> > >
> > > JT
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "chris gonzalez"
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 9:34 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Tightening head bolts on engine stand?
> > >
> > >
> > > > just snug them to 20lbs and torque it in the car.but 180? where
>did the
> > > extra half turn come from? I just did the head gasket on my diesel
>and the
> > > process was 20lbs, 40lbs, 50lbs, warm up the car then retorque to
>50lbs.
> > 180
> > > degrees more would have been more like 80lbs of torque.
> > > >
> > > >
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