Shit...broken manifold stud

[mardak at cogeco.ca (Mark)]

David Utley wrote:

> 
> 
>> I have read on ford-trucks.com where someone likes to heat the part
>> a little and then light a candle and drip candle wax on it.
>> Apparently the wax follows the threads in also and loosens things
>> right up.  Those guys should know, they keep their trucks for 400k
>> miles sometimes.
>> 
> 
> 
> That is VERY interesting.  I have to try that...  I could see how it
> works...


It works GREAT!  Before I got laid off at the automotive machine shop I 
was working at I was often the "lucky one" who got to remove studs that 
customers had busted off.  I got LOTS of practice, and it was actually 
pretty rare that I had to resort to drilling a stud out.

If the stud is broken off above the surface I'd heat the surrounding 
area with an oxy/acc torch (to a dull glow), trying to minimize heat on 
the stud itself (you want the "hole" to expand, not the stud).  Do this 
quickly, and then rest a paraffin wax candle on the area for a few 
seconds until it melts and gets sucked into the threads.  Quickly get a 
vise grip on the stud and slowly work it back and forth until it frees 
up. If you only try turning it out you'll probably twist the stud right 
off - the back and forth method works better to "break" the rust bond. 
Just go easy...  It may require more than one application of heat 
(especially if you don't work fast enough, and the stud tightens up 
again).  A propane torch isn't the best tool here, since it'll take too 
long to heat the area (and it's not as "focused"), and you'll end up 
heating the stud as well.  If that's all you have, then it still may 
help more than no heat at all though...

For studs broken flush or under the surface the first thing I would try 
is to build up the stud a bit with the welder (if needed) before welding 
a washer to it.  Then I'd weld an old nut to the washer.  Hit the area 
with a candle, and then work it back and forth with an impact gun (with 
a regulator on the air line turned WAY down, so the impact is VERY VERY 
soft - a wrench will work fine if you don't have an impact or 
regulator).  The heat from welding is usually enough.

My boss didn't believe in penetrating oil, or anything since it "takes 
too long", and burns like crazy when you torch the area.  Wax, heat, and 
force are all that he used.  At home, where you can let penetrating oil 
work overnight, or with several applications, it's worth trying 
though...   (my favorite is Thrust - made by Castle, awesome stuff - it 
"foams" so it sticks...)  If I know I have to remove some rusty nuts 
I'll sometimes hit the area with Thrust everyday for a week... 
Actually, that reminds me, I have to swap a TT race DP in my latest 
acquisition - I better hit that up...

Later,

Mark.
75
77
80 S
81 S  x3
81 Caddy