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Battery Relocated but hard starting and running rough.



Yes, engine grounding is much more important than the size of your 
main battery cable (to an extent)... on my mk1 I am running 2 gage welding
cable(saving more weight than Ron!  hehe) from the battery to the starter
terminal.  Ground for the battery is to the rear seat belt location
just like both of your setups...

So, that leaves you with grouding to the engine... make sure that you
have a good ground from the body to the tranny/engine bolt, which is
like the factory setup, except the ground cable will not tie into the
battery negetive terminal, obviously.  I would also add a ground cable from
body to the starter bolt and/or the alternator mounting bolt.  Some
have gone as far as adding another ground to the mounting bracket on
the ignition coil.  I see no reason to use cable "larger" than
say 4 gage for these grounds.  Just my experience.  

I can't remember exactly Don, but I think your rocco may have had
an additional ground or two in place?  Yes?   ;)

Hope you figure it out!  Let us know...

Ben



--- Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Don, 
> 
> I used 00 welding cable from McMaster Carr.  I believe it took just under
> 16'.  Your rear ground
> seems fine but what about your engine ground up front?
> 
> Ron
> 
> --- dswalterwi <dswalterwi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > Ron,
> > I took the fuse and holder out completely direct wired to the battery at
> > the rear of the car.  I thought that had solved my problem.  The car
> > starts and runs but the battery seems to degrade over a couple days till
> > the car won't start.  No warning lights and the volt meter shows
> > charging reading of about 13 volts (somewhere between 12 and 14 volts).
> > I went back to the Monolith battery (650 CCA, 900 CCA peak) thinking the
> > small Stinger didn't have enough juice but the problem is worse.
> > 
> > I am suspecting one of two things; one I have a bad ground which is hard
> > to believe because the whole frame is acting as a ground as I am bolted
> > to the seat post sanded 2 ft of 4 gauge cable.  Two the 4 gauge line
> > that I am running to the front is dropping too much voltage.  With the
> > car off I can measure 12.94 voltages everywhere.  With the car running I
> > get about 13.9 at the battery.  So I'm suspecting I should have went
> > with 0/1 gauge.  Tomorrow I am going to try running a heavier gauge line
> > outside of the car from the battery positive to the front.  I have
> > connectors that will except up to 0 gauge wire.  I suppose welding cable
> > would be the cheapest and most flexible if that is what I decide to go
> > with.  I'm currently using expensive 20ft of 4 gauge fine strand Stinger
> > cable designed for audio.  If that doesn't help then I'm going to put
> > the battery up near the front so I can jump the ground directly to the
> > distribution block for the grounds. I am trying to isolate whether it is
> > a grounding problem or loss of voltage.  Any thoughts?
> > 
> > Don
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
> > [mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of Ron Pieper
> > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 3:08 AM
> > To: Don Walter; Larry; Scirocco-L@scirocco.org
> > Subject: Re: I'm fused but won't start
> > 
> > Don - Assuming your checked continuity with a ohmmeter, try checking
> > with a voltmeter,  measuring
> > from the line (at various points) to ground, looking for a difference
> > between fuse-in and fuse-out
> > conditions (do this when the engine is running).  That should identify
> > the source of your problems
> > - let us know what you find.
> > 
> > When you take the fuse from the circuit, what do you put in its place
> > (how do you wire around it)?
> > 
> > Ron
> > 
> > 
> > --- Don Walter <dswalterwi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > It has continuity.  All the electrical stuff works but the car won't
> > start.  If I remove it and
> > > direct wire it then all is well.  Can the fuse it self be restricting
> > the current?
> > > Don
> > 



	
		
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