broken bleeder

[ralexander03@snet.net (Rick Alexander)]

If you were very careful about the depth of your drilling you don't have to
break the seal. In actual fact you want to try to NOT hit the seat of the
bleeder with the drill. Drill only to the bottom of the threads which should
relieve the grip on them enough to CLEAN IT then pull the drilled bleeder
out. This could even be cleaner than regular bleeding while it's on the car.

Rick Alexander

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rabbit16v" <Rabbit16v@attbi.com>
To: "Scirocco List" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: broken bleeder


> Remember though that your working on a hydraulic system and pieces of
metal
> should be complete flushed out.  I am not sure how to be positive that
> caliper would be clean unless you completely took it apart (pulled the
> piston).  HTH!
>
> Dave
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Bubb" <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com>
> To: "John Lagnese" <jlagnese@massed.net>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 4:37 AM
> Subject: Re: broken bleeder
>
>
> > I'd think it would be just like removing any broken screw. The big
> advantage
> > is you don't have to worry about keeping your drill bits centered since
it
> > already has a centered hole.
> > I would try to drill it out to a diameter to match the unthreaded part
at
> > the bottom of the bleeder screw (have to measure one of the others).
Once
> > you've drilled it past the threads that should relieve force on the
> > remaining threads and allow an easy out to be used to finish the job.
> > Well, at least that's what I'd try.
> > Dan
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Lagnese <jlagnese@massed.net>
> > To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>; <a2-16v-list@a2-16v.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 11:56 PM
> > Subject: broken bleeder
> >
> >
> > > Any tips on removing? Its a front on my 87 16V.
> > > John
> > >
> > >
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> >
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