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How are roll-bars typically made/purchased?



The roof I have that came with the ragtop didn't show any signs of cracking, but I have no idea how much of a beating it took before I got a hold of it...
 
But Mr. BoxOParts says his had some cracking issues (maybe I can get him to get a pic).
 
This car will not be a Daily Driver. It is receiving a near-ground-up restoration that I would like to be able to handle mountain driving anywhere from 3-10 times a year. I'm going to drop signficant $$$ on a paint job and down want to have it ruined because I was too careless to not reinforce the car properly. Here's what I currently have:
 
http://www.validpath.com/images/ragtop/back%20reinforcement.JPG
 
http://www.validpath.com/images/ragtop/reinf%mount.JPG
 
http://www.validpath.com/images/ragtop/front%20rt%20corner.JPG
 
http://www.validpath.com/images/ragtop/back%20rt%20corner.JPG
 
http://www.validpath.com/images/ragtop/driver%20span.JPG

TTYS, JT
L F <rocco16v@netzero.net> wrote:
Jeff
Ah, you are speaking more of a roll "cage". If you intend to tie into front and rear strut towers it gets REAL complex. Not that it can't be done, not at all, it just eliminates some day-to-day usefulness of the car since a bar will have to go through the door openings (and the higher the better). 
Simplest:
1) roll bar (RB) behind seats, with cross-brace going from base of one leg to bend above driver's head. (easy part)
2) tube going from midpoint of passenger-side leg of RB to right rear strut tower (attach to tower by whichever method you feel most comfortable with...weld or mechanically fasten. BUT, you might as well weld, since this thing won't be coming out without a Sawzall anyway)
3)tube going from midpoint of driver-side leg of RB to left rear strut tower
4) (FUN PART) tube going from same midpoints of RB to front tower...both sides. These will go through the firewall and possibly the dash, including fuse blocks, HVAC ducting, etc.
5) cross bar from one rear strut tower/bar intersection to opposite upper corner of RB.

This is not ideal (ideal would take lots more fabrication) but is about the simplest structure that would be of any worthwhile chassis-stiffening benefit.

Do rag-top roofs have a history of cracking?

Larry
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jeff Toomasson 
To: L F ; scirocco-l@scirocco.org 
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: How are roll-bars typically made/purchased?


I guess maybe I shouldn't call it "simple", but I was looking for something that would cinch the four strut towers in such a way to keep chassis flexion to a minimum. Any suggestions on a pattern? :)

Going custom is not an obstacle - I'll need my rag to tackle the twisties 5-10 times a year. And I don't want have the roof cracking if I'm going to drop $$$$ on a paint job... :)

L F wrote:
Jeff,
A simple four-point roll bar will not stiffen the chassis to any significant degree. 
As far as minimum gage, this would apply only if you are building to a particular race sanctioning body's rule book. if you aren't racing, don't worry about it. I wouldn't go under .062" wall thickness, .080" would be better/heavier/more costly. 
I'd have one custom built, if it were me.
And I'd have a good welder install it. (although with a hardtop, you could get away with bolting and bolting WOULD let you remove it more easily)
Mostly personal opinions here, but I've built race cages before. 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jeff Toomasson 
To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org 
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:08 PM
Subject: How are roll-bars typically made/purchased?


Most likely I'm going to have to have a simple roll-bar setup when I do my ragtop to prevent undue stress to the roof from chassis flexion.

Honnold mentioned that he got a "Autopower" setup, but I don't get anything when search for that in Yahoo. Went to the .org for various links to racing sites and got nothing (BSI, Shine...). I don't see any at some of the tuners' sites I've checked either...

Are they typically custom-made? Is there a minimum tubing gauge that must be observed? I'm assuming it's better to have them bolted in as opposed to welded...

Also, should I have it installed when I have the car painted? Or do it after?

Thanks in advance! Jeff
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