[tech] Rebuilding 16v prop valves...

[joshhignight@techography.net (joshhignight@techography.net)]

If your proportioning valves are like mine, and leaking obscene=
 amounts of fluid, you can try this. The leaking comes from=
 either corroded sealing surfaces (where the brake line enters=
 the valve, or the valve enters the M/C), a bad seal in the top=
 half where the brass nozzle is installed, and/or a=
 bad/blown/missing o-ring. By combining the best of a few valves,=
 and installing the 16v specific parts back into those good=
 parts, you get a very-much-newer 16v proportioning valve without=
 the hassle of searching for months for a good one or paying a=
 rediculous amount at the dealer. 


Find a known good 8v proportioning valve (or two like I did).=
 Take the 16v proportioning valve apart. Note all components:

top half (male threaded)
Bottom half (larger part, and female threaded)
1 rubber o-ring
1 spring
1 collar/spacer
1 brass nozzle/valve
1 washer

Take the 8v proportioning valve apart and you get the same order=
 of parts. 

The spring and nozzle are the only differing parts that I could=
 tell. But to be on the safe side, I used all the 16v guts on=
 mine (nozzle, spring, washer, collar)

Using the 8v halves, install the 16v guts in the 8v halves (I had=
 to use the top from one 8v and the bottom from another in order=
 to get the best sealing surfaces). Find the best o-ring of the=
 bunch, and install it between the 2 halves. This is the tricky=
 part. You need to have the o-ring squish between the halves, and=
 still screw both halves completely together. The o-ring will try=
 to push out of it's groove. I found that lubricating the o-ring=
 with some brake fluid helped to keep it from sticking to one=
 half and pushing out when you tried to tighten it. It still took=
 me about a half dozen times though. 

Once you have gotten things together tightly, reinstall and bleed=
 your brakes. Welcome to the world of no brake leaks and properly=
 proportioned brakes! Woohoo!



HTH's someone.

Joshua