16v Rear disks on a 8V

[treed2@u.washington.edu (T. Reed)]

> Just curious but what is the drill and die grinder for?  Everything is plug
> and play unless you replace the prop. valves and those don't take a drill or
> die grinder and don't even have to be installed usually.  Plus, you don't
> need the whole beam, but you do need the things you listed which can easily
> be taken off of the rear beam without taking the rear beam.  I would
> reccomend just the brakes and not the beam unless you want to replace the
> bushings while your there and add the 16v rear sway bar then have an extra
> beam (from your car) laying in your yard.  Might make a good planter?

Okay, I made an assumption here that the 8v rear beam is the same as the
rear beam from a 78 rabbit that I put in my 16v to replace the bent one
(while keeping the rear discs).

The drill is to make the four holes for the brake line brackets that mount
right beneath the stub axle with two hex head screws. Also, I used it to
make the holes for the rear sway bar in the rear beam but that is
unrelated to the disc brakes I suppose.

The die grinder is to clearance the axle beam for the calipers and the
upper allen bolt for the pad carrier. At least, I had to do this.. the 78
rabbit axle had about 1/8" of extra material that wasn't there on the 16v
axle I pulled out, and that little bit was enough to keep things from
fitting properly. The allen bolt would not go in and the upper caliper
bolt would not line up because the caliper was hitting one of the "lips"
on the rear beam.

Fitting the whole rear beam is somewhat easier especially for an
amateur because everything doesn't need to be swapped over to the old
beam, wheel bearings don't need to be repacked, etc. Maybe not easier but
less time consuming at least.

> Also, as far as cons go, I have never had a caliper seize and rarely have
> seen them on any VWs at the shop I worked at.  It does happen but probably
> not as much as most people think.  Plus, the calipers are not that expensive
> compared to some of the newer ones they use now.  I think maybe $40 to $60
> is a decent estimate.

I haven't had my calipers sieze, but I saw it happen on an A2 GTI once and
it wasn't pretty. The brakes got glowing hot just from driving around. A
replacement caliper (new) was verrry expensive. Granted, it was an A2,
but that experience, and experiences that other listers have posted led me
to make my generalization.

I like the idea of rear discs as much as the next guy. All I was trying to
say is that for the amount of work involved, you'll get more bang per
dollar from front pads that aren't made by "Raybestos" than a rear disc
swap. IMO, YMMV.

> Dave

-Toby