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16v 2.0l engine, N/A stats??



> > P.S. My latest mods are/will be an electrically-driven water pump,
> > electrically drive power steering pump, and a kill circuit that
> > switches the
> > alternator off at wide open throttle. This should free up *several* hp.
> > Yeehah!"
> >
> > --
>
>
> So when you jam the throttle, the alternator cuts out freeing 5-10 hp?
Then
> since there's no alternator the car's voltage drops from 14.4V to 12.2V.
> All those fancy new electrical pumps will run much nicer at 14V than at
12V,
> not to mention your ignition circuit.  Try taking your car for a rip
without
> the alternator plugged in.  It defenately will be slower due to less
voltage
> reaching the coil, transferring into less voltage out of the coil, less
> voltage to the sparkplug, less powerful spark!  Its a good idea put unless
> I'm missing something I would reconsider.

I was contemplating this also since I am pushing the 'stage 5' also.
Wouldn't it be rather easy to wire the field wire into some type of throttle
switch activated by a toggle switch or even wire up the field wire to the
toggle switch by itself?  Seems that would be rather easy but the toggle
only switch idea would necessitate switching it back physically and
accidentally forgetting may be a bad thing!

As far as the power drop is concerned our cars are made to run on a 12 v
system and I don't believe that the alternator being un-fielded (sp) for a
few seconds will cause any power losses and if so it would defineately be
made up for with the additional hp from the disabling of the alternator.
Now, as far as all the other things are concerned, it may defineately have
an impact on the other electrical devices that you (Scott) plan on running
by electric motors but how much could only be determined by trial.  It seems
that it would take much of a motor to turn the waterpump but the P/S pump on
the other hand may have to be a little more powerful.  Just get rid of that
power steering the early A1 manual steering almost feels as good as power
anyway!

Dave