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OT garage floor coatings



Big Mac,

Be advised that those resins that are put into paint for non-skid come in
different grades from just noticeable in bare feet to twenty grit sand
paper. It can be non-skid and still not be tough to work on. However with
that said, in a garage where you will be rolling around heavy things such as
floor jacks, no resin additive will last long.

Rick Alexander

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian McGarvey" <brianm@earendel.org>
To: "Haygood" <haygood@aemail4u.com>
Cc: "Neal" <nealtovsen@yahoo.com>; "Anson Clement"
<anarchistbooty@hotmail.com>; <roclist@accessconsulting.ca>;
<scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: OT garage floor coatings


> Thats called NON-SKID.. you dont wanna be crawling around on that..
> sandpaper..
> brian
>
>
> On Tue, 4 Feb 2003, Haygood wrote:
>
> > Also, one of my friends knows a guy who makes big bucks doing garage
floors.  He uses a tough epoxy paint mixed with sand for traction.  Rolls it
on.  Don't know how well it holds up.
> >
> > BH
> >
> > --- "Neal" <nealtovsen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >I've been thinking of giving this a try:
> > >
> > >http://www.racedeck.com/
> > >
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org
[mailto:scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org]On
> > >Behalf Of Anson Clement
> > >Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 8:11 PM
> > >To: roclist@accessconsulting.ca; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > >Subject: Re: OT garage floor coatings
> > >
> > >
> > >Bugger!
> > >The house is a rental so I'm not willing to spend more than 40-50 on
the
> > >floor. I seriously doubt the landlord would spring for a contractor so
I
> > >guess I'll have to live without the epoxy. The floor realy is quite
nice but
> > >epoxy makes sweeping and spill clean-up such a joy. A major pro for
painting
> > >the floor would have been assured deposit-return, without the paint
I'll
> > >probably stain it.
> > >Thanks for all the help
> > >Anson
> > >
> > >
> > >Sealer is a bitch.
> > >If you want a top notch job you gotta get that stuff off. Only way I
know of
> > >I stated before, i.e. terrazzi grinder (800 lb six puck(corrumdum
stones)
> > >monster). there may be chemical strippers out there. But I cant speak
from
> > >experience. Shot blasting is very dusty, noisy, and possibly weakens
the
> > >concrete. Grinder is done in the wet. so have a shop vac handy else
you'll
> > >have a concrete driveway as well...
> > >Maybye there's a rental unit (grinder) that's more manageable? and you
will
> > >need an angle grinder for the edges...
> > >I know where you're comming from you want a quality job that will last
a
> > >long time, (I'd say 20 years or more in a home garage application)
compared
> > >to probably 3 years for concrete paint. Depending on your budget maybye
you
> > >could get a commercial contractor to do it for you. Maybye they'd be
willing
> > >to do just the grinding, from experience I'd say a two car garage would
take
> > >~3 hours to grind plus edges of course.
> > >Jason Adams
> > >Fahrvergnugen Forever! ;)
> > >84 rocco 16v
> > >93 320i
> > >98 Z71
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: Anson Clement
> > >To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > >Sent: Monday, February 03, 2003 4:27 PM
> > >Subject: Re: OT garage floor coatings
> > >Thanks for all the input guy's, I just returned from the inner
sanctuary
> > >a.k.a garage. Sad news, the floor appears to have been treated with a
> > >concrete sealer. From what I understand epoxy will not adhere to sealed
> > >concrete unless it has been shot blasted and sometimes not even then.
> > >Apparently acid etching will not touch sealer. Any bright ideas? I'm
not
> > >about to pay for shot blasting and an angle grinder would take several
> > >years.... if my girlfriend let me live that long.
> > >Anson
> > >My Stepfather owns a company that applied floorcoatings used in ware
houses,
> > >and as a part time job when I was in university I helped on
weekends.... So
> > >I know what I'm talking about...
> > >For high traffic areas we used a two part epoxy made by Tennant, 424 I
> > >believe was the model designation, The second "part" was actually a
powder
> > >you mixed in for the abrasion resistance. It you want any non-skid
areas
> > >sprinkle some #0 sillica sand when applying the second coat (at the
end)
> > >else change rollers when moving back to the rest of the garage.
> > >As for application, well that depends, is the floor currently painted?
if it
> > >is, remove it, we used a terrazzi grinder which used 6 corrundum stones
to
> > >chew the paint up and clean the concrete. This is not practicle for the
home
> > >user. Do your best, spend 90% of your time on prep work. a metal
scraper and
> > >paint remover for stubborn areas may work, If it's really stubborn
leave it,
> > >it must be bonded on good, after chipping,scraping, sanding, definately
acid
> > >wash, the stuff we used was Tennant 409 concrete cleaner but any
muriatic or
> > >hydrochloric acid will do. after acid wash (with mop), rinse with lots
of
> > >water. let dry a minimum of 6 hours or overnight (after you've
squeegeed off
> > >water), more if humid and or cold.
> > >remember, prep, prep prep.
> > >we took all the floors down to bare concrete for best bond, because we
don't
> > >mae any money on call backs. If you're going to paint over painted
floor and
> > >not prep rigorusly don't wasteyour money on epoxy, it won't stick... I
know
> > >jason.
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: Anson Clement
> > >To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > >Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 7:46 PM
> > >Subject: OT garage floor coatings
> > >I'm going to be coating my garage floor in the next month, any
> > >recomendations for what to use/not use and how to prep or apply?
> > >Anson
> >
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> --
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian
> 88 16v $2003 GRM challenge car http://www.grmotorsports.com
> 84 0v Next years car got parts?
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