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Stripped bolt - how screwed am I?



> <snip Toby>
> Not sure exactly which bolt you're talking about since I think there are
> at least two different versions of the 16v a/c bracket.. but I'm guessing
> its the single bolt that runs along the passenger side->driver side axis,
> going through the bracket and the block. By that I mean it goes in to the
> same side of the block that the timing belt is on. Am I thinking of the
> right bolt?
> <end snip>
>
> Yup, you've got the right bolt.  However, I misspoke.  It's not a hex head
> bolt.  It's a bolt that requires a hex wrench, aka a cap screw.  And to top
> it off, the head of the cap screw is recessed in the bracket so the top of
> the screw is flush with the bracket.  It's a pretty serious screw as it
> spans the width of the bracket (maybe 4" long).  I've considered pounding a
> triple square or larger hex into it, but there's no room to swing a hammer.

Ah, okay. It's funny.. that's what I was remembering from my own car
(that it was an allen head bolt) but you specifically said hex so ya
fooled me ;)

Hmm.. IIRC you can get at the backside of that bolt. Maybe you could cut a
slot in it and use a small slotted screwdriver to spin it clockwise and
turn it out? Or a stud remover if there's enough room (doubtful).

I think pounding in an SAE/larger metric/triple square bit is probably
the best first attempt, as you suggested. But you might have to monkey
with the motor mounts to get the engine lifted or dropped enough to get
swing room for the hammer.

If you have a welder you could tack weld a "handle" on to the head and use
it like a wrench to turn the bolt out. Likewise for the little nub
sticking out the back side, except if you did that you'd have to hack saw
the handle off once you got the bolt broken loose.

I can't remember how recessed the bolt head is but if you can get a file
or grinder at it then as I mentioned before you can make two flat sides on
it and slip a wrench over it.

Good luck

-Toby