folks w/lowered cars, please comment...

[brian_wagner@sbcglobal.net (Brian Wagner)]

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Drill the whole for the tierod and then use a hiem joint with a grade 8 bolt. simple solution to the problem.  Brian

Allyn <amalventano@sc.rr.com> wrote:> What is *very* expensive is the spacer to relocate the a-arms downwards.

umm, how about just machining the hole and installing the arm inverted (with
no spacer). that will get you most of the distance you are looking for. all
you will have to do is worry about the inverted tapered hole, which i would
think a machine shop could replicate. the hub carrier metal exists to make
the bottom half of the taper. a simple weld could fill the top area before
the taper is made.

Al



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<DIV>Drill the whole for the tierod and then use a hiem joint with a grade 8 bolt. simple solution to the problem. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Brian<BR><BR><B><I>Allyn &lt;amalventano@sc.rr.com&gt;</I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">&gt; What is *very* expensive is the spacer to relocate the a-arms downwards.<BR><BR>umm, how about just machining the hole and installing the arm inverted (with<BR>no spacer). that will get you most of the distance you are looking for. all<BR>you will have to do is worry about the inverted tapered hole, which i would<BR>think a machine shop could replicate. the hub carrier metal exists to make<BR>the bottom half of the taper. a simple weld could fill the top area before<BR>the taper is made.<BR><BR>Al<BR><BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Scirocco-l mailing list<BR>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<BR>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l</BLOCKQUOTE>
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