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front a-arm bolt tip



Another way to make reinstalling the front a-arm bolts easier is to
remove the front sway bar. It removes the biggest restriction to
manipulating the a-arm. I find it's generally in the way anyway
(depending, of course, on the project at hand) and removing and
reinstalling it with the car on the ground only takes a few minutes. 
Dan

"T. Reed" wrote:
> 
> Just thought of this while I was skimming through list messages..
> 
> I've always hated taking off the bolt through the front of the control
> arms because every time I do it (such as to install or remove my lower
> stress bar) the arm always shifts when I remove the bolt and then it takes
> 6 hours to re-install the bolt because I have to jiggle, jack, lower,
> twist, try installing bolt, jack again, etc. until I get it catches the
> threads and starts going in. Every time of course I risk screwing it up
> and having to have a new nut welded inside the unibody.
> 
> When I was doing my engine swap I had to take off the lower bar because I
> decided to drop the engine out the bottom and it was definitely in the
> way.
> 
> This time I tried something different..
> 
> With the car on the ground, jack up the driver side of the car to ~6"
> clearance between the driver side wheel and the ground. Crawl under car
> and remove passenger side a-arm bolt. Install or remove stress bar. Then
> re-install bolt.
> 
> Lower the car again and jack up the passenger side. Crawl under the car
> and remove the driver side a-arm bolt. Install or remove stress bar on
> -that- side. Re-install bolt, lower car and torque both bolts.
> 
> I did this twice and each time it went without a hitch. I don't really
> know how I came up with this method but it worked well for me and I
> figured there's got to be somebody out there who has spent 6 hours trying
> to get the bolt lined up with the nut again (say, after installing poly
> control arm bushings) who would find this trick useful.
> 
> -Toby
> 
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