Solved! ...16v AC removal = high idle?

[vwtype53@yahoo.com (Benjamin Harder)]

Well, I did a thorough check of switches and sensors and the
idle stabilizer valve... everything checks out.

Next I started checking all hoses trying to find where I might
be inducing un-metered air into the intake.
Turns out that the PO of that engine made a modification to the
breather hose that connects from the breather on the front of the
block to the bottom of the cold start valve
and then to the base of the fuel distributor... so air was able
to go into the intake unaccounted for, which explains the high
idle.  After swapping that hose with the one from my mk2 16v,
my '80 was running great and the idle was back down where it should
be again!  Yipeeee!

Thanks for the help Renard and Ron!


As for the mounting of the alternator, I followed the same steps
mounting it as Shannon Fenton did on his 16v for AC removal...
nice work on the site Shannon!
<http://www.scirocco16v.com/tech/16v_ac_removal.htm>

Ben



--- Fli GLi <1gli@rochester.rr.com> wrote:
> 
>  Ben,
> 
> 	Check your throttle switches.  There are 2, one for the idle and one for
> the WOT.  The plunger that gets activated when the throttle is in the idle
> position wears and then wont depress all the way and make contact w/in the
> switch.  This causes your idle to stay high.
> 
> 	Get a small, thin, pointed "thing" and w/o moving the throttle too much,
> try to engage the switch manually.  If your idle fluxes, esp. down, it's a
> good bet that your switch is bad.  The switches can only be bought in a pair
> and are ~ $100 from the dealer.  I think Potterman carries them, but by the
> time u add shipping, it's pretty much the same cost.
> 
> 	BTW, this is what we determined Cathy's problem to be, most likely.  Cathy,
> did you replace yours yet??
> 
> 	Also, what did you have to do to your alternator to keep it mounted in the
> stock location?  I'm looking to remove the A/C on my GLi and want to keep
> the alt. in the stock location.
> 
> 	Thanks,
> 
> 	Renard


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