2.0l 16v runs, but overheats

[rabbit16v@attbi.com (Dave Ewing)]

Be sure that you filled the cooling system correctly.  What I mean is, fill
using a radiator hose, as much as you can.  Once you do this, then get it
warm a few times and then cool off and it should bleed off the air bubble
that you obviously have.  Unless the T-stat isn't openning or the fan isn't
coming on OR the cap is bad (needs to seal completely up to about 16psi).
The only other thing it could be if it isn't any of those is a head gasket
problem or a crack in the head or block.  Hope it isn't one of the last 3!!!

Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 9:59 PM
Subject: 2.0l 16v runs, but overheats


> Got the motor started up today after some initial frustration from
> installing the distributor in the wrong set of bolt holes..
>
> I let it idle in the garage for 20 minutes or so to burn off the chemicals
> on the exhaust manifold (smoked like crazy!!) and I kept an eye on the
> temperature gauge. No more than 60 seconds after it reached normal
> operating temperature, the temp gauge shot up way above the LED and the
> coolant bottle cap relief valve blew off dumping coolant everywhere..
>
> I noticed that the radiator fan had not come on so I suspected electrical
> gremlins. Decided to get it out of my friend's garage anyway so I let
> it cool off, filled up with water and drove it home without issue. Oh,
> baby!! The 2.0 16v has way more torque than the 1.8!! *drool*
>
> Against my better judgement I drove the car about a half hour later to go
> on a beer run and it was all kinds of fun but I noticed it was heating up
> a lot again.. when I returned from the store I popped the hood to check on
> it and coolant was spraying from the hose that plugs in to the bottom of
> the front of the head coolant flange. I think it goes to the oil cooler..
>
> Anyway, can't tell if it's busted or just leaking around the clamp
> (in all likelyhood it has a hole in it..) but it sucks because I can't
> drive my car..
>
> I wonder what's going on? I don't think its the fan wiring anymore
> because I didn't mess with any of that, just dis- then re-connected it
> during the swap.. I -did- pull the a/c a week or two before the swap but
> didn't have any overheating problems after that.
>
> One thing I did notice is that while I used to be able to turn the hvac
> lever to max a/c and the radiator fan would come on when the fan switch
> was at 1, 2, 3 or 4.. now the rad fan only comes on when it's on 1. It
> doesn't on 2, 3 or 4. What the hell? I don't really see how this is
> possible from the electrical diagrams..
>
> That aside.. the radiator and the upper rad hose are hot to the touch, but
> not scalding hot. I'm wondering if the thermostat is stuck closed or
> part-way closed. It's a brand new german 70 C thermostat that I installed
> during the swap (along with the water pump.. the "new" one is used off
> of a 16v jetta but appeared to be in good shape). Is it possible for a
> thermostat to be bad when it's brand new?
>
> I think Patrick Bureau said that he put his thermostat in backwards and it
> caused some sort of problem.. but I put the new one in with the same
> orientation as the one I took out.. so that seems unlikely.
>
> I never had any cooling/overheating problems at all before swapping in the
> 2.0 shortblock.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated..
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Toby
>
>
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