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pass side engine mount change & injector seals



Oh the timing....forget that.
My big concern now is the fact I paid $26.44 to have Foreign Auto Car on
Main St in Columbus, Ohio (behind the International Parts Store) press in my
engine mount for me.
Sure, I could have used a vise, hammer, and a little cussing to get it in,
like I did with the tranny mount 3 weeks ago. I decided to do it the easy
way.
I dropped it off Friday morning, picked it up about 4pm that evening. When I
picked it up, I thought to myself "They pressed in in upside down!" but I
wasn't positive, and this IS a shop 'specializing in select european and
japanese makes' so they know what they are doing, I'm new to 16V and MK1
stuff....I'll shut up. One guy who hangs out there/works there/works at
International told me "It's right".
It isn't right. I got home, showed it to a few people online, compared it to
the pic in the how-to page that was nicely provided to me by the list, and
sure enough, they pressed it in upside down.
It wouldnt be so bad, if they didnt have the old mount in there to use as a
guide.
What kind of monkey minded moron presses a piece out, then puts the new one
in perfectly upside down?
Oh, it gets better.
The 4mm thick plate the mount is welded to....yeah, they bent it.
I can see large gouge marks in the plate, where it had moved when they had
it clamped, or something, but the marks on on both sides, the plate moved
15mm judging from the gouge marks in the steel, and when you lay it flat on
a table, it is high in the middle.
It will no longer lay flat against an engine block. It might be close, but
I'm not putting it in. It sucked getting it out, it'll suck worse getting it
in, and getting one in BENT won't be any easier.
I now am stuck all weekend. I can't pry on the injectors, because the engine
is on a jack under the pan and tilts and wobbles like it wants to topple.
Of course they aren't open on weekends.
I'm so mad, I'm thinking bad thoughts. Besides that, I feel like going and
buying a new german mount bracket, another german mount, taking it to be
pressed in today, and then charging Foreign Auto Car for all the expenses.
I have zero luck with shops.
Blagois, the Bosch Authorized people, they put in a clutch wrong...the
flywheel only goes on the PP ONE way...those 2 roll pins in the flywheel say
so. Not if you are Blagois...hell no, drive one pin into the pressure plate,
bend the lip of that, then torque it all down.
I've got pics of the PP with the indent of the roll pin in it, and I had a
horrible vibration when driving....I wonder why.
Nothing ever came of that. I contacted the BBB, tried to settle it with
Blagois (was told "you want my VW to be as smooth as a Mustang, and bud, it
jest ain't gonna' happen!" by the head machanic), and nothing ever happened.
I bought a new clutch kit, and I did it myself.
If I had a press, the mount would have been done by me too.

As for the timing belt sprockets, I know there is a woodruf key in them,
I've had my 8V apart, and they are the same way. The tensioner I will HAVE
to mess with, as the timing belt is loose. I have a homemade tool to fit the
tensioner, as my 8V cars all have the same tensioner with the 2 holes in it.
It doesn't matter now, I sit until I can get the engine mounted again.
Sorry for letting loose with the mini-novel:)

Broke


----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
To: "broke" <broke@insight.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: pass side engine mount change & injector seals


> I just want to second this statement. I just spent $1000 repairing a
> problem brought on by removing this bolt. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOLT.
>
> It is torqued to almost 200 ft-lbs and spins the engine when you put a
> wrench on it so is rather impossible to remove or install. Also the bolt
> is one-time use and costs $8. There is a key cast in to the sprocket that
> is essential to prevent engine damage from bad cam-crank timing. On
> my car this key was partially crushed during the re-installation process
> requiring me to purchase a new engine to get my car running again.
> Don't take the bolt off! It's okay to take off the four allen bolts
> surrounding it, though. These hold the two pulleys on to the crankshaft
> sprocket.
>
> The same warning applies to the sprockets on the intermediate shaft and
> camshaft.
>
> Also, don't touch the tensioner for the timing belt if possible. It's real
> easy to 1) screw up your cam crank timing and ruin your engine or 2)
> loosen the nut or stud in the head that the tensioner rides on thus
> causing #1 to happen sometime in the future while you're driving around.
>
> Better just leave the timing belt alone unless you're replacing it now in
> which case I hope you did your homework because it is a very sensitive
> (but important) job.
>
> HTH,
>
> -Toby
>
> On Thu, 3 Oct 2002 brianm@earendel.org wrote:
>
> > you do NOT have to remove the large bolt on the crankshaft.
> > brian
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 3 Oct 2002, broke wrote:
> >
> > > OK, I've found that the belts all need removed, crank and water pump
pulleys, both timing belt covers to get the engine mount bracket out.
> > > I'm also afraid my FI puller tool will not work on this 16V:(
> > > Oh well, a bit at a time I guess.
> > >
> > > Broke
> > >
> > >
> > >   ----- Original Message -----
> > >   From: broke
> > >   To: Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > >   Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 12:26 PM
> > >   Subject: pass side engine mount change & injector seals
> > >
> > >
> > >   Why is there no room to work in?
> > >   Anyway, I have no Bentley yet, and I need to change the pass side
engine mount on my 88 16V.
> > >   Does the lower timing belt cover need removed?
> > >   Are there 2 or 3 allen bolts holding the mount bracket to the
engine? I only see 2, very oily, one loose.
> > >   The mount is worn out so the upper timing cover nearly rested on the
body.
> > >   I have the front up on ramps right now, trying to figure out how to
get this done.
> > >   I'm thinking of putting a jack under the oil pan, taking the wieght
off the mount, remove the big through-bolt, then lowering the engine down so
I can get to the bolts that hold the bracket to the engine.
> > >   I wanted to know what all needs removed or whatever to get this
mount done.
> > >
> > >   I also am going to try to do the inj o-rings and inserts. I have a
FI puller tool, for my 8V cars, but will it work on my 16V? I have the
gasket to to between the intake manifold halves....can the manifold stay on
for this inj seal replacment?
> > >
> > >   I have a VC gasket too, but I'm more concrened with the engine mount
and o-rings now. Should I try them all at once, or what?
> > >
> > >   Thanks for any help!
> > >
> > >   Broke
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> >
>
>