Battery Reloq. Fuses/Breakers (long)

[vwnuts@yahoo.com (Anthony Pelletier)]

I use a 200(or is it 250) amp pheonix gold circut
breaker on my MKI and its worked great.  It will
allows an intantaneous spike with out opening the
circut, so it works for starting the car unlike the
first one I had.  It would blow if I cranked it over
for more than 10 seconds (Don't ask why I had to crank
it over so long.  Its got a nasty hot start issue)  I
probably didn't need it, but I put it there for
insurance so I don't have a car-b-que.

.02
Tony

--- Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> --- Brian Haygood <scirious@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > ...he knows of a Supra that burned because the
> power line in the
> >rocker panel got pinched and sparked a fire. 
> Sounds reasonable
> enough.
> 
> Sounds like a careless installation.
> 
> > So he shows me what he has..... Problem is the
> breakers/fuses are
> >40amps.  Now I don't remember the exact number, but
> it seems like I
> >paid for around 6-700 cold cranking amps when I
> bought a battery.  
> 
> I think wiring that 40A breaker or fuse into a
> starter circuit will be
> an enjoyable way to watch money burn.  Literally.
> 
> My wife's car - a BMW - has a rear-mounted battery
> from the factory, 
> the +12V goes directly from battery to starter (I
> checked the BMW's
> Bentley, and later models use a fusible link in that
> line, which is an
> altogether better solution, IMO).
> 
> 
> > Should I even bother with this?  
> 
> I'm not going to.  Just use grommets, shielding,
> common sense, whatever
> to protect that wire!
> 
> > I'm considering mounting all of the relays and
> whatever fuses to them
> >in the driver's front fender cavity in front of the
> tire, if I get
> >something weatherproof enough.
> 
> Hmmm...I'm going to use the plate where the battery
> used to be.
> 
> > For you EE types, is there any reason I can't use
> a household breaker
> > meant for 120vAC?  I mean, can I rig up a "10 amp"
> breaker and expect
> > it to trip at 100 amps on a 12volt system?  
> 
> This is an interesting question (and a true Cheapass
> candidate).  The
> first thing that pops to mind is that Amps are Amps
> are Amps,
> regardless of voltage.  BUT remember 120VAC is
> measured in RMS, DC
> amps, well, there is no RMS.  It'd be a neat thing
> to fool with.
> 
> >Could I test this by hooking up a household dimmer
> switch (maybe
> >series'ed with a lightbulb or two), and hooking it
> up to my battery,
> >then turning down the resistance until it blows,
> then measure that R? 
> 
> 
> You could also test by measuring the voltage drop
> across the load.  Dig
> up an old heater resistor...please post your
> findings!
> 
> 
> =====
> Cheapass Ron
> "Victor" '87 16V Scirocco
> "Teufelhasen" '93 Cabby <-For sale
> 
> If it ain't foggy, TURN OFF YOUR FOG LIGHTS.
> 
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