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Strut bearing replacement



That's pretty much it. Mark the camber bolts with a hammer and a chisel.
I've never had the alignment go back exactly so if you use this method,
count on getting an alignment. It will get you close though and that will
save your tires until you get an alignment.

A method that I've successfully used to preserve the alignment is to remove
the control arm from it's two body attachment points. This will give the
assembly enough movement without removing the camber bolts so that the
spring compressors can be used while it's on the car. It's not nearly as
easy as taking the strut to the bench but it works.

Rick Alexander
http://www.brubakerbox.com
http://clubs.hemmings.com/hams/
http://clubs.hemmings.com/vwsrus/

----- Original Message -----
From: "dave t" <pearl16v@yahoo.com>
To: "scirocco" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 4:36 AM
Subject: Strut bearing replacement


> I'll be doing this this week. How do I mark the camber
> bolts so I don't mess with the alignment? Do i have to
> remove the strut assembly to have access to the strut
> bearing?
>
> Do these steps look ok? i got them off the web:
>
> 1. Jack up and remove the front wheel.
> 2. Undo the brake hose from the strut.
> 3. Remove the two bolts (19mm) on the bottom of the
> strut.
> 4. As you support the strut with one hand, remove the
> top nut (22mm), this will
> release the strut assembly. You might have to use a
> screwdriver to separate the
> strut housing from the wheel bearing housing.
> 5. Compress the spring and remove the special
> retaining nut, there is a special
> tool, I used my needlenose pliers.
> 6. Replace the strut bearing, the retaining nut.
> 7. Re-install the assembly; support the strut in the
> tower, place the special
> washer and get the 22mm nut started.
> 8. Replace the 2 19mm bolts,
> 9. Remount the brake hose.
> 10. Replace the wheel and lower, then crank down the
> 22mm strut nut.
>
>
>
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