Re: [16v] euro intake cam install

["ethos101" <ethos101@netzero.net>]

well, I dont know about the cam install, but I just tore down my 16v motor
and getting the crank sprocket bolt off was ..uh... difficult.We ended up
heating it with a torch ,let sit, smack with hammer, then it was easy.I
would have a new bolt on hand if I needed the car back right away.In case
your wondering, abreaker bar with a big snipe (and my 300lb friend)lifted
me(200 lb) off the ground  trying to break it loose.HTH
----- Original Message -----
From: T. Reed <treed2@u.washington.edu>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 12:33 AM
Subject: [16v] euro intake cam install


> Hey list,
>
> I've received my euro intake cam from Andy Holmes (thanks Andy!) in the UK
> and have some questions for people who've done this before..
>
> First - can this cam be used with a catalytic converter or is it
> -necessary- to remove the cat in order to prevent it from melting as
> suggested by Andy and several other sources? I'd like to keep my cat if
> possible for the reduction in emissions and exhaust-quieting value alone..
>
> Also, is there anything I need to know for the install? Basically just pop
> off the intake and valve cover then loosen and remove the cam bearing caps
> gradually (is it 1/8 turn at a time?) and remove the old cam. Then just
> bed the new one in and throw it back together? Do I need to use assembly
> lube? What about new hardware - are any new parts needed besides the valve
> cover gaskets ?
>
> Bradley Peet mentioned that it is necessary to either remove a bolt by the
> end of the head or remove the exhaust cam in order to remove and install
> the intake cam.. any comments on this?
>
> Should I change my camshaft sprocket oil seal while I'm there? (or is it
> not necessary to remove the sprocket for the install..)
>
> I'm also doing another repair either before or after the cam install - for
> some reason my crankshaft sprocket is installed lopsided and is actually
> rubbing on the block causing a really ***IRRITATING*** squeaking noise and
> I can't take it any longer. So I'm taking the sprocket off (even though
> it's like a 190 ft/lbs bolt) and re-installing it evenly with a new bolt
> and spacer that I ordered from the dealer. Any tips for getting this bolt
> on/off ? I don't want to snap off the head or something like that. That
> would be a major PITA. I already had the sprocket "slip" while I was
> tightening it 2 years ago and ended up schmuq'ing the molded key inside.
> At the time I was able to just get a new sprocket and carefully file the
> notch in the crank to "repair" it. I determined that it would not likely
> slip because the damage was not to the side of the notch that the key was
> "pushing" on .. had the engine turned the opposite direction instead I
> probably would have needed to replace or machine the crank/block.
>
> I appreciate any comments or info..
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Toby
>
> --
> '87 16v
>
>
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>

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