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Re: Head reassembly questions



1) Your way is as good as any, a little grease will help, plus adjust
the c-clamp so it's almost difficult to get the retainer in. That way
it's tough for it to fall out.
2) Bearing cap studs shouldn't need to be replaced unless the threads
are buggered.
3)I'd replace the valve guides unless they are virtually new.
4)I installed a POS 272 copy from Eurospec when I installed my Eurospec
head. There was nothing that could be done to make that cam live, or the
replacement they sent me. OTOH any QUALITY cam e.g G grind, Schick 274
that I have installed has needed NO concessions to break in. No special
lube, No 2k for 20 min, no nothing.
The SOHC Ford 4 cyl mentioned in the article, small block Chevy and
probably many others really do need these proceedures. These engines
don't retain lubricant at the cam/lifter interface where the VW does.
Also, their materials probably aren't as good....
If you get a good cam from a name brand supplier, you don't need to
worry about any of this.
Dan

Ben Channard wrote:
> 
> This is regarding a solid lifter 8V head that I'm rebuilding for a JH
> transplant.
> 
> 1)  When reinstalling the valves, what is the best way to attach both keeper
> halves without having them fall off?  Will some sort of grease (assembly
> lube) be tacky and safe enough to keep them in place whilst relieving
> pressure on the springs to lock them in place?  By the way, I compressed the
> springs with a scary rig consisting of a 6" c-clamp and a short length of
> PVC pipe with windows cut out of them.
> 
> 2)  Should the studs which hold the bearing caps be replaced or can they be
> safely reused?
> 
> 3)  My impression of the consensus opinion regarding valve guides is to
> replace them but my Bentley says that they should only be replaced if worn.
> Since the guides are pressed in, does each cycle of R&R loosen them?
> 
> 4)  I'm still debating whether to install a G-grind cam.  If I decide to go
> for it, should I install it into the re-virginized head or after the motor's
> break in period?  The reason I ask is because according to the Puma Racing
> site: <http://members.aol.com/pumaracing/cam1.htm> a new cam must not be
> allowed to idle but run at a constant 2K rpm for the first 20 minutes of its
> life to properly work harden the lobes.  This doesn't seem to be friendly
> with the break in protocol for the rest of the motor (assuming it starts),
> so should the motor be broken in first (with the original stick), then the
> new camshaft?  I realize this will entail all the pleasantries associated
> with removing the timing belt but if it's gotta be done....
> 
> Thanks for any input.  benton-----
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