what would you do......

[POTATO! <theforce@invasion.com>]

ok...last fall i finally got my 2.0l 16v motor (after 7 months of
waiting)......i had a shop assemble it (didn't have the time or experience
when i initially started the project and i wanted it to be done right the
first time)....anyway 2 months or so after having it in i started to get a
tiny coolant leak that i wasnt able to trace easily.....replaced the
reservoir, cap, metal coolant pipe, all hoses on the driver side and still
had the leak.....
i started working at a dealership and got some uv dye to put in the
car.....traced the leak to the headgasket on very back on the passenger
side.....

i pulled the head (had arp head studs installed by the shop)....7 of the
studs were only in hand tight, and 1 or 2 of the nuts werent hardly torqued
on at all.........i'm surprised i didnt have a bigger headgasket leak....

anyway i used a metal head gasket and installed the head studs tight in the
block and made sure the nuts were all torqued to spec.......

now as i see it this is the shops fault (there was only 3k on the motor
from october last year till now....havent driven it due to the leak and
lack of time to do the headgasket)....i had nothing but problems with the
shop with this project (7 months for them to assemble the damn block (the
headwork was done in 1.5 months)....leaking valve cover gasket because they
pinched it  on the timing belt side.....oil leaking form the end portion of
the transmission i had them rebuild (they put silicone sealant on the union
instead of a new gasket)....oil leaking into the timing plug hole and
ruining my new clutch)....

what would you do if you were in my situation to help get satisfaction.....

i plan on talking to the owner tommorow and tell him what i found when i
disassembled the motor.....but i'm not expecting much....

anyone else ever have problems with ARP head studs?.....i'm told there isnt
a need to retorque them, but i'm going to anyway just to make sure....

dave



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