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Re: Help me plan the rebuild



>Ok, I'm picking up my 16v this Saturday!  So I am in the process of planning
>out a total motor rebuild (motor being built for me now).  Here are the
>parts/processes I am going to get for the rebuild.  Anyone see something
>I've missed or would recommend?
>
>-PK
>
>
>
>Timing Belt
>Timing Chain
>Timing Belt Tensioner

Those are all good.  You might want to insist on a stock style timing
chain without a master link.

>
>Front Motor Mount
>Rear Trans Mount
>Driver Mount
>Pass Mount

Mandatory in my book too.  VW Motorsports rear mount?  TT HD front mount?

>
>V-Belt (A/C)
>V-Belt (P/S and WP)

Easy one, add Pentosin (sp?) power steering fluid also.

>
>Head Gasket
>Oil Pan Gasket
>Valve Cover Gasket
>Intake Manifold Gasket
>Exhaust Manifold Gasket

New 2L 16v oil pump (re-locktite the pickup arm bolts though, don't
ask).  There are two exhaust area gaskets, the 4 between the head and
the manifold, and the one between the manifold and dual downpipe.  As
for gaskets, just get the two kits...the full head kit and a block
kit.  They include _almost_ every one you'll need, plus a duplicate
or two.  The large oil cooler ring (between the flange and the oil
cooler block) isn't included, the dual downpipe gasket isn't, the
throttlebody gaskets aren't (two identical gaskets).

>
>ARP Head Stud set

IMHO, skip this.  More trouble then it's worth.  You have to retorque
them after a bit (removing part of the intake manifold, and the valve
cover).  The stock bolts have a 175,000 psi clamping force or something
like that...the ARP units are good for 225,000 or something close...
without forced induction to stress them, it just doesn't matter in my
book.

>
>16v Distributor
>HP Spark Plug Wire set
>Spark Plugs (copper triple elec)
>Distributor Rotor
>Distributor Cap
>O2 Sensor

Ignition, check. :)

>
>Waterpump
>Water Thermostat
>Cooling Fan Switch
>Coolant Hose Kit

Low temp I assume?  New orange style coolent?  You might also
want to consider the two coolent outlet flanges (one front, one
drivers side) off the head.  Also, the twisty metal pipe that
runs from the fire wall to down near the waterpump.  Twisty metal
coolent pipe is the proper technical term I believe. :)

>
>Sachs Clutch Kit
>Clutch Installation Kit
>Clutch Cable

Get the real 2L 16v clutch disc...manual cable here?  New pressure
plate also?  Um, throttle cable?

>
>Alternator Regulator
>
>TT Catback Exhaust
>TT Downpipe
>
>Blueprint Fuel Injectors
>Fuel Filter
>Injector Sleeves/Bushings

New fuel distributor sealing rings (all the little brass rings
around the banjo bolts, etc...)

>
>Air Filter
>
>TB Coat Manifold
>TB Coat Downpipe
>Intake Manifold Porting
>Exhaust Manifold Porting
>
>Balanced Flywheel

Can you have this flywheel balanced with your new pressure plate
and crank?

>
>Poly A-arm bushings

If you insist on non-rubber here, might I suggest Delrin instead?  I
think it's a bit tougher in this high stress area.  Up to you of course.

>Steering Rack bushings
>Upper Rear Shock bushings
>Rear Trailing Arm bushings

Same advice here for Delrin, as dropping this thing is a little on
painful side (it's friggin heavy!) not to mention the brake line
hassle.

>Poly Strut bearings
>
>Upper Front Stress Bar

Lower tie-bar frame brace if you don't have one already also.

In addition, you'll need many many new nuts, bolts, allen bolts,
washers, etc...much much easier to figure out what you need by
looking up the parts on ETKA.  Make sure you get new head studs
for attaching both manifolds.  I didn't see any coolent hoses listed,
maybe you should just do the ones that are a bit buried...like around
the oil cooler and water pump.


Hmmm, all I can think of right now.... :)

==Brett

 \/  '84 Scirocco (ITB racer 2B) | "Hot VW's, take two home. They're small"
\/\/ '88 Scirocco 16v (Show), '92 Passat 16v (Winter+) | - brett@netacc.net

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