Re: Exhaust parts

[drew <drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca>]

It has been my experience with exhaust manifold removal that although the
nuts sieze to the studs, the studs rarely sieze in the heads.  I start
with a liberal application of liquid wrench (on the off chance that the
nut might turn off of the stud,) then drive a six-point 12mm
(11mm or 10mm on really corroded nuts) socket onto the nut and turn the
stud out of the head.

The act of driving the socket onto the nut tends to jar the stud threads
loose in the head, and the studs will turn out with surprisingly little
force.

For broken studs, a screw extractor has always worked well for me.  
Drill out the centre of the stud, taking care to keep the drill straight
and true.  You should not need to use a very large extractor, as the stud
should not take a lot of effort to remove, and the vibration from the
drilling helps to loosen the stud threads in the same way that the
hammering does.  I have yet to find a broken stud that won't turn out with
mild pressure on the screw extractor (YMMV.)

Simply replace broken or corroded studs (or studs with nuts frozen onto
them) with new ones, use all new 12mm copper locknuts, new gaskets, and a
4-2 or 4-2-1 manifold (throw out the 4-1 stock boat anchor) and you're
away.

HTH,

Drew (84 Wolfsburg with 4-2-1 manifold, new studs and no skinned
knuckles... :) )

On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Keith Fullerton wrote:

> Hey Nate,
> 
> I just posted about my experience removing my stock manifold from my 84
> 8v.  It wasn't particularly easy, but it is possible. It took several
> hours (Then again, I'm not a professional mechanic and have never done
> it before...sounds about like you).  I started off just replacing the
> valve cover gasket, but once had that off,decided to try to change the
> exhaust manifold gaskets as well. Removing the down tube is a bit
> tricky...the C-springs require a special tool...however someone on the
> list posted a picture of how he used a muffler clamp to to remove
> them...It works pretty well. If you get a muffler clamp you can
> probably figure out how to do it. Next I removed the intake manifold.
> Not sure if it was necessary, but it gives you more room to work. That
> came of pretty easily...6 allen head bolts.
> 
> The real problem is that the nuts that hold the manifold on pretty much
> corroded onto the studs. Use plenty of liquid wrench. On mine, 3 of the
> eight studs broke off (or were already broken), and I'm going to have
> to drill them out...don't know if I can do that with the engine in the
> car or not... 4 came out pretty easily and I had to use a dremel to cut
> one off.
> 
> Since I'm still in the middle of it, I can't tell you how it turned
> out. I just wanted to let you know my experience. Essentially...If you
> can get the old nuts and studs out without having to drill them, it is
> a pretty straightfoward procedure so far.
> 
> Good Luck
> -Keith
> 
> --- Nate Mellom <bronson@inwave.com> wrote:
> > I'm getting a used stock 4-2 manifold and a used Techtonics 2-1 race
> > downpipe (removes the cat) from my local VW mechanic good guy for
> > $70.
> > Question is, how big of a pain in the ass is switching manifolds
> > while
> > the engine is still in the car?  Am I looking at a big job?
> > Nate
> > '84 8v
> > 
> > 
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> 
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Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of Guelph

drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca           |  visit the Massey-Harris page:
http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew   |  http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca


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