Re: Steering rack boot repair

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Having just done this I can give you a quick rundown. The job is pretty
easy and can be done in about 2 hours if you go nice and slow and its your
first time. These instructions are for power steering.

1. Pick up a new boot from Potterman ($8), and some heavy duty black zip
   ties from Walmart (or go for colored if you want to match your paint,
   for example). You'll also need a puller, the kind that has arms that
   hug the part and a bolt threaded through the center that you tighten to
   "poke" out the offending part. I wouldn't recommend using a hammer, as
   you may damage the threads and destroy the tie rod. Replacing the tie
   rod on a power steering rack requires removing the steering rack from
   the car which means pulling off all those power steering hydraulic
   lines and it just isn't worth it. Just spend the money on the tool
   you'll use it again anyway.

2. Pull off the wheel of the affected side

3. Locate steering arm on wheel and spray some carb or brake cleaner on it
   to kill the accumulated brake dust

4. Pull out the cotter pin (you'll have to bend the arms back so you can
   pull it through)

5. Remove the nut holding the steering arm from below

6. Use a puller to seperate the outer tie rod end from the steering arm

7. Use vice grips to hold the tie rod on the flat spot on the steering
   rack side next to the adjustment lock nut

8. Mark and measure the exact adjustment of the locknut and tie rod end.
   Write down an exact measurement as an incorrect re-adjustment will
   screw up your alignment.

9. Put a box end wrench on the locknut and turn it one full turn towards
   the steering rack

10. Stick vice grips on the tie rod end and remove it from the tie rod
    completely

11. Remove the lock nut from the tie rod also

12. Cut off the old clamps (they're too hard to remove in one piece) and
    pull off the old boot

13. Inspect the tie rod and check for damage and play

14. Slide on the new boot. This is harder than it sounds. You may have to
    remove the steering rack heat shield (its MUCH easier to take off than
    to put back on) to get it on ALL the way.

15. Secure it in place with zip ties, then cut off the extra "zip"

16. Stick the lock nut and tie rod end back on, in EXACTLY the same place.
    Count threads if you have to, but I found calipers with the little
    pencil lead stick coming out the end the easiest way to make an exact
    measurement. I also score the lock nut on the flat part that was
    facing up and the threads that corresponded with what was "up" when I
    scored the lock nut.

17. Securely tighten the locknut against the tie rod and recheck your
    adjustment.

18. Stick the outer tie rod end back inside the steering arm and torque
    the nut back on.

19. Don't forget the cotter pin. You could probably reuse the old one but
    I replaced mine with a new one of approximately the same dimensions.

20. Put the wheel back on and take it for a spin

Easy, wasn't it?

I, too, was horrified at the prospect of using zip ties instead of the
factory clamps, but as well all know, Potterman is the parts deity and he
suggested doing it. The zip ties appear to be holding up fine, and I
can't imagine trying to get some stupid clamps around that boot in such
confined space. Now I've got to do the other side just so I can have
matching zip ties!

Hope this helps... sorry for the length, I get caught up in details...

-Toby

--
'87 16v

On Thu, 6 Jul 2000, Rob Bisch wrote:

> I have a steering rack boot that has a small rip in it and I want to change 
> it before it gets big.  Jason Cammisa can attest to how anal I am about my 
> car so I have to fix this quick.   Has anyone done this? Hard or quick fix?  
> I haven't looked at my manual yet.  Can just the boot be replaced?  I'd like 
> to get it done before I head to the fest.  Actually, I want to fix it this 
> weekend.
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Rob
> 88 16v
> 
> 
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