Re: [Non-Roc] QSW's: What to look for?

[William J Erikson <williamjosiah@juno.com>]

	AHHH!! DON'T pay that much for it!! My dad's QSW with 200K, no rust, and
nothing wrong with it (no power options, blue) was $800. Mine with 140K,
all power, needed balljoints, brakepads and center muffler was $1300. I'm
going to go buy one tomorrow with 200K, red, sunroof, no power, for
$1000. QSW's aren't worth much anymore, at least not until winter. Unless
this car is MINT, like has NOTHING wrong with it and maybe even has had
some upgrades, don't pay that much for it.
	Center mufflers are hard to get, somebody told me they can be gotten,
but they dealer wants $400 or something absurd for them. I bypassed mine
with pipe. More power, better gas mileage, and hardly noticeably louder.
Definitely noticeably faster though.
	There are no direct-fit aftermarket/sport shocks available for the rear.
Kindof a bummer, but people have been known to fabricate coilovers or
other similar things. A1 rear struts fit with some modification - then
you just have to get the shocks revalved for the heavier QSW.
	Driveshaft center bearings are expensive to replace. They can be gotten
for $100 (rather than the $400 the dealer wants for 'em), but putting
them in still requires some work (including a press). Make sure it's not
howling.
	The almost always run hot (above half - if the low speed fan is broken,
they will run just below the top line, which is kindof disconcerting).
Don't worry about it unless the pressure in the cooling system is
excessive, which usually indicates a blown head gasket. Other than blown
head gaskets, these engine are bulletproof, even more so than JH's. You
can actually drive them around just fine with a blown headgasket, and I
know a couple of people who have.
	Rear calipers are expensive, just like on your 16v. Most parts are about
as expensive as on your 16v, or a little less. Rear shocks (original) are
like $50 each, because they're QSW specific. Anything that's QSW specific
is going to be expensive, but that isn't much. Most parts are from
various VW's or the Audi 4KQ. The engine and center prop shaft are the
same as the 4KQ, and the transaxle/center diff & rear diff are externally
the same as the 4KQ, but the gear ratios are different. The rear
suspension is entirely different, which is a shame, because the rear
suspension in the 4KQ is far superior.
	If you want to read the roadtest online, I have it up. Check it out:
http://hamp.hampshire.edu/~wje97/vw/current/qsw.html
There should be a link to it off that page.
	The drivetrains are BULLETPROOF. They NEVER die. You CANNOT kill a
transaxle or rear diff unless you do seriously bad things to it. These
things routinely take 300 + bhp from 20v Turbos and are just fine. Rear
CV's last forever.
	Make sure the diff locks work. They're a PITA to fix if they're broken.
If they work you'll never get stuck. I'll tell you some stories about
where I've taken my QSW if you're interested.
	QSW's RULE! Get one. But don't pay too much for it. They handle
awesomely, in my humble opinion, and are not too shabby in the
acceleration department either (under 10 seconds 0-60). Mine gets about
26-27 mpg.
	Any more questions? Ask away.
	-Josiah
	Weare, NH
	'84 GTI
	'87 QSW
	'86 Golf
	http://bork.hampshire.edu
	Self-Employed VW Mechanic (for the summer) : )



On Mon, 7 Jun 1999 19:09:52 -0500 (CDT) Neal Tovsen
<ntovsen@piper.hamline.edu> writes:
>
>I have the opportunity to look at a 87 Quantum Syncro tomorrow, and 
>was
>wondering if anyone (A-HEM, Josiah!) could tell me:
>1. What to look for/typical things that go bad.
>2. How reliable they are.
>3. Are they outrageously expensive to fix? (keep in mind I own a 16v, 
>so
>is it going to be even more than that?)
>
>The seller is a local VW club member. The car has 110kMi, power
>everything, a bunch of new/extra parts, and an Alpine sound system.
>Supposedly the interior is very clean, but he hasn't yet mentioned the 
>
>body. Also claims that all service has been done at the club's chosen
>shop (South Central, where I've been taking my Roc lately...I'm gonna
>call the shop owner) and that it has always used synthetic fluids for
>engine, tranny, etc. He's asking $3800.
>