Re: A/C Panel Backlight

[NJNagel@aol.com]

Is there a difference between the controls of an 8V and 16V? the heater/AC 
bulb on my 8v was burned out too but it slid right out of the faceplate and 
while I did need to get an adapter thing from the dealer (about $8) and a 
bulb (also from dealer, it's an Osram bulb) I didn't have to modify anything 
and it now works.  Unfortunately the bulb is intermittent now only 30K miles 
later, as is the one behind the clock :(  But anyway before you go too nuts 
on this "project" maybe you should look at some older 'rocs in a junkyard 
next time you have a chance.

good luck

nate
In a message dated 12/4/99 02:23:11 Eastern Standard Time, 
archive@porknet.fdns.net writes:

> I have an '87 16V with A/C. Unfortunately, my A/C panel backlight bulb has
>  died, and it evidently costs $60 - $80 to replace the whole panel, since
>  the backlight bulb is not removable. Well, I don't have that kind of
>  money, but I still hate fumbling around in the dark to try and find the
>  A/C control levers and fan switch. In my quest to be as cheap as possible, 
>  I've cut, sliced, wedged, and dremeled my current panel to oblivion. In
>  the process I've discovered that:
>  
>  1) Yes, the white part does seperate from the black part. Not easy, but
>     possible.
>  2) The bulb is barely visible through the tab on the side near the
>     assembly, if you look hard enough. Its a sort-of oval shaped bulb.
>  3) On models without the removable bulb, the bulb is -soldered- to the
>     connector :(
>  
>  My plan is as follows: I've already cracked apart the black and white
>  plastic pieces, at least half way... and I've already succeeded in
>  breaking the bad bulb into a thousand little pieces trying to pull it out.
>  I just finished dremeling out the o-shaped "tunnel" that the bulb slides
>  into, to form a u-shaped "tunnel". I also removed most of the excess
>  plastic around the copper fingers that the old bulb was soldered to, this
>  will allow me easier access with a soldering iron. To do this, I used a
>  special dremel attachment..basically a small barrel with sandpaper all
>  over it, the kind of sandpaper you use on wood. This takes off the plastic
>  but not the metal. That way you can grind and grind and not worry about
>  grinding off the copper fingers. After I buy the bulb I will set it in the
>  u-shaped "tunnel" and solder its leads to the copper fingers. Then I will
>  wrap the whole tunnel thing in several layers of white electrical tape to
>  keep the light from leaking out, and reassemble the panel. I might have to
>  glue it to keep the black and white pieces together, in which case i'll
>  only use a drop or two on the short edge to hold it in place.
>  
>  I'm -hoping- this will work. And if it does, and it isn't total crap, I
>  will post pictures of the proceedure, or at least part of it, and the best
>  excuse for instructions possible.
>  
>  Anyhoo, the reason I'm telling this to you all is I need to know what kind
>  of bulb to buy to replace the one that I broke to 1000 tiny bits. The
>  A2_Vent_Control_Light file on Jan's VW page says that for Corrados and A2
>  Golfs/Jettas, the bulb is Sylvania "European Lamp" 2721. While its
>  probably the same, it'd be nice to have one of you who has the kind of
>  plate you can replace the bulb in to check and see what kind of bulb you
>  used. Or if you have any suggestions or other information. Yeah...
>  
>  Thanks,
>  
>  -Toby
>  
>  --
>  '87 Flash Silver Metallic Scirocco 16V

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